I'm looking for a brand of varuthane (sp) that doesn't turn yellow after application and stays clear. I haven't had any luck in finding it so far.
TIA
-- Cheri
I'm looking for a brand of varuthane (sp) that doesn't turn yellow after application and stays clear. I haven't had any luck in finding it so far.
TIA
-- Cheri
Varathane _is_ a brand name -- a RustOleum product, specifically.
Not sure what you're really asking for--a varnish with UV protection or a product that is actually nearly colorless?
If the former, all varnishes will yellow some w/ time, UV-inhibitors can help, but don't eliminate it completely. All varnishes have a certain amount of color if you're talking of initial color.
If you really want a "non-yellowing" finish out of the can, your best bet is probably either an ultra-blond shellac or lacquer.
Knowing more about the project and end objective would undoubtedly help w/ more specific advice.
Varathane is a brand. A water base polyurethane wont yellow like oil base will.
I did some stenciling of roses on a white surfaced, wooden bread box, and I want to seal it with varnish or something like that, so it can be wiped easily without being too careful, but I want it to stay white and not turn yellow as I've seen some varnishes do. Maybe I'll try the ultra-blond shellac. Thanks.
Cheri
Thanks I think the Diamond Star is what I'm looking for. Thanks to all for the answers.
Cheri
The other alternative I intended to mention (and I think some others did) that is probably the better choice for such a project is a water-based varnish.
I have had good luck with minwax water based polyurethane
I'm not sure but Doesn't shellac turn white when wet, obscuring the roses?
Actually, while having made the original suggestion of shellac for its color, here's an application for which I would suggest a brushing lacquer as a good choice... ...
I'm not sure either, but when I did shellac a bed post headboard with stencilling, it looked fine, and then turned yellow, while the rest of the bed frame remained white. That's what I'm trying to avoid. One day when I have nothing but money to invest, I would like to bring both of these items back to original wood, since they are over fifty years old, but for now, paint and shellac is the best I can do. :-)
Cheri
My wife is an artist. Some years ago she undertook a project to paint a large mural upon a school cafeteria wall. The architect specified an expensive non-yellowing varnish. She used what they specified but everywhere she overlapped showed and they refused to pay.
The paint stores all agreed that what she used was the best available but that there was no such thing as a non yellowing clear coat of any kind in the absolute.
In the end, my wife spent more time with a sun lamp bleaching out the overlaps than she had on the mural. When she was finished, the yellowing did not show and everyone was happy but her. Hours and hours of sun lamp against a tile wall gave her severe headaches.
Good luck! Randy R. Cox
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