Just attach a fence to the DP and mark where the center of the hole will
be on the fence. Then align the mark on the door to the mark on the
fence and that is plenty good enough. No stops needed. I have cut
several hundred hinge holes this way.
Last full kitchen hinge replacement job I did, I used similar set-up,
but I didn't mark the doors at all. Instead of marking the fence where
the hinge goes, you mark the fence for the top/bottom of the doors.
They all get spaced the same, so that means you don't have to even mark
Next time, I may put flip-stops on the fence to make it even more full
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
On Monday, January 15, 2018 at 6:25:43 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
That's how the Blum hinge boring machines work - they have flip stops. But
for odd sized doors or one-off cabinets I would install the plates first.
I found that the ones we used sort of came to a point at the center. I'd
then push the edge of the door against them in the opening with appropriate
shim under the bottom. This left little indents that I'd then mark with a
saddle square around to the back, which I'd then line up with the center l
ine on the boring machine. Very quick, very accurate. I'm sure not all cu
p hinges have this - we used the Blum brand.
So, I visited a kinda new woodworker last night and he is doing some pretty
serious work, for a novice.
He already has a respectable collection of Festool and a collection of
larger equipment that is more entry level. Anyway he has the Kreg hinge
jig we are talking about!
He likes it, but that is all he has ever used to drill hinge holes. Yes he
has a DP but has not used it yet for anything.
His only dislike about the jig is that it gets clogged up with waste and
has to be cleaned out with each hole.
I would guess that it will be great when you are in a bind but not the
preferred method for several doors especially when you have a DP in the
shop. IMHO if you ever have the need to drill a hole for a hinge with no
access to a DP you can't miss for such a smash investment. And if you
have or get a DP you could use the bit from the jig to drill your holes.
Every time we get further into this discussion I remember more aspects
of that last, big replacement job I did. Time is money for us and time
adds up very quickly.
I think the biggest time savers for me on that jog was having the vac
hose, locked in position the entire time, every time. After more than
50 holes drilled, I had less debris on the floor than if I had drilled
one one without a vac.
The other aspect that saved time/money was the fact that I didn't have
to measure or mark anything. As fast as I could set the door on the
table, I was ready to drill. The actual drilling was the slowest part
of the entire process.
The next slowest part of the project was putting those little screws in.
Last ceiling fan I installed, the blade attaching screws were connected
to the bracket so all you had to do was hold the blade in place and
drive the screws. If they could figure a way to do that with these cup
hinges that would be awesome.
Anyway, if you are doing dozens of these to make money, I wouldn't ever
consider that jig. But like you said, if you're just doing several or
are doing it at home during your leisure, then yeah, it's an awesome tool.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Yeah! LOL I need to figure out a way to drill those holes with out my
wife holding the DC hose at the drill site.
Yeah, and as you mentioned, stops on the fence speed up production but
then I found that I double handled each door because the stops only
worked for one end of the door before relocating. I pretty much went
straight to using a fixed marking gauge for the top and bottoms of the
door and a center line mark on the fence, as I mentioned before.
Flip stops for two hinge doors would seem to be the answer, again as you
You are in luck! You still have to drill the holes, and probably more
precisely but take a look here.
Well actually you would have to seriously step up your game to justify
On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 1:51:31 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
Well, I'm almost there.
The oversized table I made for my DP look very similar to the table
for that machine. I'm sure the table is a major part of the cost.
If I bought the machine a la carte I could probably get a discount.
On Mon, 15 Jan 2018 18:56:51 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
I bought it to build some cabinets for my shop but I haven't had
enough time to even think about it. I have a lot more work to do
before I could use the cabinets, even. ...and no time for that,
Thanks Scott and Leon for a look at the actual jig and opinions. I am pass
ing on your comments and pics, Scott to my boy.
I got a big charge out of reading the comments.
I understand that he would be better off buying a drill press, a dust colle
ctor, and either buying a jig system or taking the time (and learning the s
kills/accuracy) to make an adjustable table jig himself. He doesn't have th
e money to purchase a dust collection system (and nowhere to put it). Yes,
if he spent a little under a $1000, he would be in much better shape.
He doesn't have a drill press. He doesn't have the skills to make a jig.
He won't invest in a dust collection system with a chip separator (needed i
n this instance) and a cowl of some sort to collect the chips. It is reall
y big stuff for him to be putting these hinges on in the first place! No do
ubt this will take many more hours than it should, but he will enjoy every
single minute being a craftsman and the bragging rights will increase as me
asured by the time spent.
He has a drill, a broom and dust pan, since he has to move the jig with eve
ry hole anyway I don't think debris removal in his garage will be a problem
. He has a couple of small squeeze clamps and can read the rule on the jig
well enough (the Kreg instructions, according to some reviews are outstand
ing) to make this work on his little 6-8 door project.
Thanks for the good responses!
On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 6:59:03 PM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Actually he might.
The wet-dry vac cost about $50, the plywood for the cabinet cost about $30.
The foam was free. (It's an old egg crate mattress pad that I had lying
around.) The blue hose is a section from a 30' pool hose that I bought on
CL for $25. Toss in a couple of adapters and I've got way less than $150
into the system.
The white box on the right side of the miter saw is the remote that turns
on the wet-dry vac. It's velcro'd on so I can take it with me. (Read on)
When I'm not using the miter saw, I swap the shop vac hose to the white
PVC adapter on the pool hose. That 1 1/4 hose hanging over the plywood
connects to the pool hose on the other side of the shop. I use it at the
workbench for my pocket hole jig, ROS, disk sander, etc. as well as
general clean-up. (That's why the remote travels with me.)
I have another length of wet-dry vac hose that I attach to the main one for
use with my band saw, router table fence, combo sander, etc. (That's why the
remote travels with me.)
I set this up about 6 months ago and it still makes me smile. I have a really
small shop and keeping it clean keeps it from getting even smaller. It may
not look like much, but compared *nothing* or compared to dragging the
wet-dry vac around and hooking it up to whatever tool I was using at the
time, it's an unbelievably huge improvement.
On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 8:02:35 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
He doesn't have enough equipment to warrant even that. His gear is a mix o
f inherited stuff, garage sale stuff, broken stuff, a few of my tools I hav
e given him that I think are on their last leg (compressor, leaking air hos
e, saw with a bad guard and bearings), or anything he can borrow from me af
ter a quick phone call to find out if he can.
He is a different kind of cat. He finished college late in life(54). He f
ound that nearly all of his credits earned in his 20s to get him through hi
s junior year didn't transfer, so he had the equivalent of 3 (6.5 years act
ual) years of schooling at night along with the books/tuition while working
. So he has college debt. His divorce (before starting back to school) le
ft him penniless, and in debt. He remarried, has had some heart problems,
and some way at 59 decided it was time for him to have a kid. So he is pay
ing for college, medical bills, his son (now 5) and for schooling to get hi
s wife certified for some nursing credentials. He drives old beaters that b
reak down constantly. Yet strangely, overall, he is happy. Go figure.
He borrows what he needs from me and has a key to the storage/shop. No big
deal for me as the stuff he borrows for minor home repairs I usually have
multiples of for use in my business like a drill, sawzall, oscillating tool
, sander, brad gun, etc. He isn't checked out on larger tools even though
he knows (kind of) how to use some of them. He used to help me from time t
o time if I needed the labor and he had the time, but his bad pump put an e
nd to that. He can't work for any longer than about 6 hours on his feet an
BUT... Looking at your setup started my wheels rolling about a setup like t
hat to take to the next kitchen I do. I could make a plywood chest that wou
ld carry the shop vac and its extensions, but it could double as a miter sa
w stand after I got it to the job.
Since I take a lot of stuff in boxes and containers out to my jobs anyway,
I always have a hand truck for the bigger jobs. A chest to hold my little
10 gallon van would be the perfect size, and even in plywood I could "truck
" it right inside a house or garage and drop the saw on top of it.
On Thursday, January 18, 2018 at 2:17:22 AM UTC-5, email@example.com wrote:
If he's working wood, he's making saw dust. A vac in a cabinet (vented in the rear) and a couple
of extension hoses will improve his efficiency and increase his desire to do more. At least that's
how it's working for me.
Build it with him at the same time you are building yours.
And one day with years of experience and investing, my fellow wood
workers, you might have a shop vac AND a broom, like me! LOL
I can do with out a vac/DC, although I would not want to do so again,
but I could probably not do with out a boom.
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