Anyone that has the Beadlock loose tenon jig: What do you think about it?

[Darin Lawrence]

Dave, I'm am a little confused by your description of "Straddle a 3" wide board" but I will try to help.. The beadlock will join anything that biscuit joiner can handle. It registers on one face much like a biscuit joiner. For thicker pieces, you add shims to move the bushings away from the the registering fence. Technically, you can even replace the 1/4-20 bolts with longer ones, use a thicker shim, and be able to place the mortise further "inland". Thus, you could use it to form a joint of a

1" apron into the center of a 3" leg. The jig is well constructed, accurate and affordable. I recall only one jig ever being returned to McFeely's and that involved someone trying to use 1/2 drill through 3/8 diameter holes. ???? You won't regret the purchase of this jig! Darin Lawrence, Technical Director McFeely's Square Drive Screws

Pat Barber wrote:

[Bay Area Dave]

Yes, Darin, you DO understand the nature of my question about what width boards it will work on. The two detailed descriptions of it's operation on the 'net were provided for me, which I read in total. The explanations tend to focus on a 3/8 and 1/2 bead for 1/2 and 3/4 material, so naturally I had wondered if it would work like with a biscuit cutter whereby you could insert a slot into the face of an infinitely wide board, if desired. I now understand that with longer bolts, that's doable. At least two users report slippage during drilling. Must the fixture be tightened unduly tight to prevent movement?

dave

Dar> Dave,

[Pat Barber]

If it slips, it's cause You didn't clamp it down. The jig requires clamping by the operator.

With a minor modification, it can be place ANYWHERE on a board.

Bay Area Dave wrote:

[gandalf]

--------- It must be well clamped. Stuffing it in a vice would do. I wouldn't call the clamping pressure 'undue', simply adequate to stop the jig moving when the drill bit tries to wander off down one of the already drilled holes.

I bought a smallish ratchet clamp last night that should work fine. I'll try it out when my new tenons arrive.

Even if the new tenons are still a tight fit I do not intend to give up on this contraption. If I have to I will have the thing drilled out to 10mm for the 3/8" block and 13mm for the 1/2" block, but first I will give the supplier the opportunity to fix it by making the tenons a smidgen smaller.

[Bay Area Dave]

thanks for the update.

dave

gandalf wrote:

[CW]

Yes, i have it. It works great. I haven't made a regular M&T joint since I got it. It's not set up as is to do angles but a little creativity will fix that. Yes, I would buy it again.

[Al Palmer]

I found a couple of things make the beadlock work better. I added lock washers to the tighening bolts. Held the jig tight and kept the drilling block from moving. I also run the drill in and out a few times. which helps keep the tenon material from getting too tight. I used mine to put together a porch full of screens for a friend. Also, if you have a router table, buy the cutter to make your own tenon material.