Loose tenon

Any tips on how to repair a tenon that stood a little too close to the router bit, resulting in a loose fit in the mortise? I'm thinking about gluing a thin strip to each side of the tenon and taking another whack at it. Any other ideas will be appreciated.

TIA

Larry

Reply to
TD
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If it's not totally wacked you should be able to shim it with some shaving from a hand plane.

Reply to
Nova

Epoxy & microballoons.

Make a fairing putty with above, then butter the mortice, shove tenon into place, clamp and remove excess fairing putty.

The gates of Hell will rust shut before the joint fails.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Reply to
anne watson

Where does one purchase microballoons?

Reply to
GarageWoodworks

I used a local industrial chemical distributor.

Cash only, 30 lb (4 cubic ft) bags, about $20-$25 a bag for Dic-a-Perl.

Check Yelow Pages

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

You could probably more easily and safely glue two thicker chunks of wood on to the tennon and have at it again.

Reply to
Leon

Sounds like you have it figured out.

"The sign of a truly good woodworker is his/her ability to effectively repair screw-ups."

Reply to
RonB

Among other sources Aircraft Spruce and Specialty

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Reply to
J. Clarke

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

veneer and sanding

Reply to
smandel

veneer and sanding

I like that one. WW

Reply to
WW

Yes, shiming with veener is pretty standard approach but am I missing something here. Bad loose tenon. I would throw it in the trash and make a new one. Or is it already glued in on one side?

Also, my typical rant on loose tenons. If you have a standard tenon and you pin it, then you have a joint that will last 100 years plus. Regardless of what happens to the glue. If you use a loose tenon and only pin one side or neither, it is not that same joint. In many cases, it won't make a difference or maybe make very little but on a chair or an apron of a table that will be dragged around, etc. It is not anywhere near as long lasting as the classic M&T.

Whew, now I feel better.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

Earlier this year FWW did a bit on joint strengths. Loose tenon was supperior to m&t, pinned m&t and most of the other joint types (with half-lap and bridle being the strongest).

scott

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

"SonomaProducts.com" TOP POSTING CORRECTED:

Answer: Any good glue joint can last centuries. Its life will be shortened by moisture, heat and stress. Moisture on a tabletop is a common factor. Heat can be. And tabletop joints are stressed at the ends by the migration of moisture through the end grain -- that's why antique tops split on the ends typically.

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

If you do a proper job of pinning, and with the technique as a goal, you don't even need glue on an M&T joint. :)

Reply to
Swingman

Have the same dimensional changes that turned the glue into powder also either split out the section through which the pin passes or loosened the pin to the point that it long since fell out?

Reply to
J. Clarke

Indeed ... in many of these old pinned joints with no glue, you often see the detrimental effects of the stress of mechanical compression on both the pins and the exterior bore hole area, eventually ending in failure of the joint.

The "test of time" is (for) a relative term. :)

Reply to
Swingman

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