|You're right!! The newbie screwed up - I was thinking about and referring to |a dado - though I was thinking the prinicpal was the same. After using the |router to attempt the dado, it would seem that if you were doing a mortise |with the router, and it was any length at all, you'd have to do it in |multiple passes, limiting the depth of cut for each pass -
Hmmm. You said "The mortises were done length-wise on the long lengths..."
That tells me that they were with the grain. That makes them "grooves", not "dados." Hence my "Groovy" comment.
Nevertheless, I don't see why the length of the groove, dado, mortise, etc would be a factor in determining the depth of cut. | |I have a Delta mortise machine - when I need to do a mortise, I it :) |(would this be a "Duh" or a "Doh"??)
Duh, I don't know.
|>
|> > |How do you cut a mortise with a TS? |> >
|> > |> Just my $.02 worth - |> > |>
|> > |> I just finished a project that used mortise & tenon's on virtually |> every |> > |> piece of frame. The mortises were done length-wise on the long |lengths |> of |> > |> the frame boards, as well as needing tenons on the ends. |> > |>
|> > |> I found that after working very hard to set up my fence with a |> sacrificial |> > |> strip, I could get fairly consistent results. The drawback was that |I |> had |> > |> to make multiple passes because I was limited by how deep I could |cut. |> I |> > |> could only do about a1/8" depth cut at a time, otherwise, the |rotation |> of |> > |> the router would cause the board to whip around and tear it up. On a |> > |> required 1/4" mortise, that was two passes per mortise, times 15 - 18 |> > |> pieces....lots of work. |> > |>
|> > |> After the second piece, I figured the easier way was to slap my Delta |> dado |> > |> cutter into the TS, and let it "rip". Yeah, there was some set-up |> time, |> > |but |> > |> it was a little less, and I could cut as deep as I wanted, with one |> pass |> > |and |> > |> consistent results. |> > |>
|> > |> I have to say that the cut on the router was cleaner, but with that |> many |> > |> mortises to do, it was easier with the dado, and the results were |> > |> acceptable. The dado worked better on this project, but I'll do the |> > |router |> > |> if I there's an appearance requirement. The big learning lesson for |me |> > |was |> > |> that I could only take a small amount of cut each time with the |router |> > |> set-up. |> > |>
|> > |> Nick B |> > |>
|> > |> > Im just interested to see whether anyone here does any dados, |> mortises, |> > |> > and/or tenons with their router and router table? I have been |> > |practicing |> > |> > for the past few days without luck. I was getting very frustrated |> > |because |> > |> I |> > |> > couldnt get consistent results on the centering of my mortises. |> After |> > |> going |> > |> > through quite a few cheap poplar boards I think I have found my |> problem. |> > |> My |> > |> > homemade router table's insert 'hole' is a bit big all the way |> around... |> > |> > maybe a 16th of an inch or so. And it would 'jerk' at the end of |> each |> > |> board |> > |> > causing the next to be off. |> > |> >
|> > |> > Anyways, any advice or 'yes' or 'no' answers would be good. I just |> want |> > |> to |> > |> > know whether I'm trying to beat a square into a round hole with my |> > |router? |> > |> >
|> > |> > Thanks, |> > |> > Mike |> > |> >
|> > |> >
|> > |> >
|> > |>
|> > |>
|> > | |> >
|>
|>
|