Specifically, the 49-22-8510
(Amazon.com product link shortened)-
Is that a one to one input to output gearing? In other words... Is
the input the same as the output? Or is it gear reduction?
On Wed, 29 Feb 2012 21:16:57 -0700, John Doe wrote
I've had one for about 5 years. It was the best I could find at the time as
others were either too big or made with plastic bodies.
It is 1:1, The handle can rotate 360 degrees and lock down at discrete angles
from 0-90. The head is a standard quick release. A very well made tool!
Thanks to the replies.
I ordered one, for my project.
An ordinary cordless drill should be perfect for an inline skating
push stick (assuming the clutch works as expected). I knew that
several years ago ago, but just now getting around to trying a
drill that includes a clutch. A right angle drill makes the device
easy to build, but doesn't include a clutch. The standard cordless
drill is meant for the application. It just needs a 1:1 right
angle attachment. The drill needs to be in line with the stick so
that the structure is sturdy. Then again... I guess the increased
structure weight required for attaching the drill directly to the
wheel sprocket/shaft might be less than the right angle attachment
In the intended application of using a 90 degree drive as a pusher located
at the end of a pole, how is the tire not going to want to rotate the pole
around it's axis, making it useless as a source of traction power?
I can grasp the wheel located between forks being (somewhat) effective, as
in a yoke setup, with power being transferred/opposed equally on both sides
of the wheel, but not offset at a right-angle to the pole.
Seems to be like trying to deliver pusher traction from an unrestrained
"John Doe" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
Like the inline skating push sticks shown on my picture page.
Probably has something to do with the backwards and downwards
force pushing the wheel into the ground. Mine does not use static
weight for traction like the others, it uses leverage.
My concern was stress on the right angle output gear bearing, but
that too is probably misguided. That's why the wheel is close as
possible to the right angle gear, but... It works fine. The second
version has the wheel much closer (percentage wise) to the right
angle gear output bearing, but even the first version worked. In
actual use, after tens of miles, the lack of a conventional fork
is no problem.
> > Seems to be like trying to deliver pusher traction from an
The link isn't working right now. I use to have a Milwaukee right angle
drill. I'm pretty sure that without the angle attachment it went at a
higher RPM, Maybe 600 vs 400
I am not a big fan of that drill. If you tighten and loosen the angle
coupling to often, it gets to a point where it no longer stays tight.
Then if the drill jams, the coupling spins, and easily rips the drill
out of your hands. If you happen to be drilling overhead, the damn thing
can clock you right in the head... Hard
Oh -- this is the little one which used to come with the AEG
electric screwdriver -- and the lever handle shown was just a push-on
tab for that one.
And this one shows the tab, and part of the screwdriver:
<(Amazon.com product link shortened)>
Milwaukee apparently bought the AEG screwdriver line. I wonder
whether they still have batteries to fit?
That depends on which way around you mount it. It offers a
step-up in one orientation, and a step-down in the other.
Sprinkle valve grinding compound inside the coupling and then
tighten it well *once* to embed the grit in the coupling, then clean off
any lose grit left. Make sure to loosen it fully before sliding it on
or off, or you will grind away the mating surfaces faster.
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