I just installed my Forrestor WW II blade. It included an informative
pamphlet on alignment for table saws. I read it thoroughly. I was surprised
to see that they recommend "opening up" the fence alignment on the back side
of the blade .005" to 1/64". The .005" is for an accurate fence. The 1/64"
is for a sloppy or worn fence. The idea is to ensure that you don't get the
wood in a bind when ripping - the primary cause of burning and a leading
cause of kickback (according to Forrestor).
I'd like to hear comments and feedback on this recommendation. It seems
reasonable to me. I compare this to Jet's allowable tolerance on blade
parallelism (0.0118") and Forrestor's recommendation easily falls in their
Interesting point. I wonder if a shim behind the front of a removable
fence face would work to allow it to be "toed out" on both sides?
Maybe use feeler gauges and insert one equal to double the desired
total (length-of-fence) toe-out at the front end, and thinner strips
at appropriate spots toward the back to keep the face from bowing.
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.
After repeated attempts of getting my Vega utility fence just perfect,
I shimmed it at the locking head with three layers or blue painters
tape on one side to cause the end of the fence to be just -.002 from
the front of the fence.
It was easier than messing with the bolts one more time.
I've since seen in books that one should cut a straight board and jam
it into the miter slot and use a feeler guage on the far end to
adjust it for parallelism.
I recently set up my new Shop Fox cabinet saw ( bought locally instead of "
Grizzly" to avoid shipping hassles; they delivered it to my awaiting Shop
Fox Wheeled base) and the T-Square fence clone " Shop Fox Classic" fence
describes the same setup; slightly open back side of the fence to eliminate
binding and burn. I have not checked it for deviation yet, but with a new
Freud Glue Line rip blade, the cuts in plywood and oak are flawless.
Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
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