Suppose a board is in a moist environment, and starts to
The board is then moved to a different location that is
sufficiently dry that the board would not have started to
rot in the first place.
Would the rot continue (eventually consuming the board)?
Or would the situation stabilize leaving the rest of the
I don't know because when I removed the rotten board it ended up in
the dumpster. They do make git rot kits where you inject something in
to the wood to kill the rot making stuff. You then can cover it in
epoxy to repair.
On Sun, 14 Nov 2004 07:31:17 -0500, Kenneth
There's a margin where rot might not begin, but it will continue. If
you're talking about housebuilding carpentry attached to a damp
masonry wall, then this could be a problem for you. It also depends
on the type of rot you have, and a little on the timber species.
If you're talking about storage damage on timber, then just saw it off
and don't worry. You shouldn't be storing timber at anything like the
humidity needed for rot to be an issue.
Largely though, any timber, including treated, will rot if the
moisture conditions are right. You _must_ remove the moisture to stop
this. Chemical rot treatment achieves little on rotten wood, it's
mainly a way of putting a guard zone around on the good stuff. Fungal
rots will propagate far better on the surface of masonry than on
timber, even though these "threads" might not themselves be damaging.
It will likely continue. The moist environment is not what is rotting the
wood. It is what breeds in the moist environment that eats the wood.
Remove the moisture and the rot may slow down but likely it will continue
unless you kill the organisms that are eating away at the wood.
Lack of moisture should kill them, no? I've cut the spalted section off a
maple or birch log and used the rest without problems. You just need to make
sure you got it far enough in, otherwise the stuff you can't see will have
weakened the grain lines. I remember turning a leg out of birch that was a
bit stained by the beginnings of rot. After I was done, I twisted it, and it
came apart along the grain.
My guess would be that it would continue to rot...
Back when I was selling homes, if the pest control inspector found
wood damaged by water, they would stop the source of the water (leaky
eaves, plumbing leak, etc.), and then treat whatever wood that they
didn't remove with something called "copper green"..
I don't know if that was a brand name or what...
On Sun, 14 Nov 2004 15:24:50 +0000, mac davis wrote:
Copper sulfate: Old, reasonably effective anti-fungal treatment. Works on
live plants, too.
Responding to an earlier post, just drying won't necessarily kill fungi.
They're tenacious beasts. When conditions deteriorate (for them), they
just spore up and wait it out.
Just to make things grimmer, they're eukaryotes; almost anything that'll
kill them will be toxic to you, too. (Yeah, Micatin, but you don't want
systemic exposure to it, either, sez my pharmacist.)
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