6" Versus 8" Dado for 1.5 HP Table Saw

I'd use the 8" dado set. I can't think of any considerable "CON", other than perhaps cost. A 8" will run smoother and should provide a cleaner cut.

When I bought my dado at a show, the owner of the company, Ridge Carbide Tool, told me to get the 8". He said the 6" is for the smaller benchtop type saws and any 1 1/2 HP can handle the 8". I've used mine for oak plywood, MDF and solid wood with no problem.

You do have to slow the feed rate for deep cuts if you are taking a wide cut. Removing 3/4" of material takes a bit more than a normal blade kerf.

I use a 8" on my Delta contractors saw, no problems. Greg

My first saw was a BT-3000. I got a 6" dado blade for it because there wasn't clearance inside the dust collection shroud for an 8" one (yes, I know some people say it can be done).

I had never actually run into anything I couldn't do with the 6" dado blade, but when I upgraded to a unisaw, I went out and bought an 8" set anyway. Funny thing is that now I more often than not just use the 6" set, and the 8" one sits on the shelf. I find the smaller blades easier to maneuver on and off the arbor without banging the teeth into metal stuff.

Can't speak directly for the Delta but an 8" works fine on my 1.5 HP Craftsman RAS on everything I've tried it on--haven't set it for max width and gone after a piece of Ipe yet but even there the worst that's likely is that it would be necessary to make multiple passes.

The only real con I see is cost.

Do you ever use a crosscut sled to dado?

Barry

Been using a Freud SD508 set on a Jet contractor's 1 and 1/2 hp for about ten years. Don't see any downside

bob g.

philly45 wrote: