I'm assembling some boxes using 45d miter joints and was wondering if
anyone has used the jointer to put a perfect beveled edge on 3/4"
finply. Using the table saw I get just a smidgeon of play near the
end of the cut if the sharp edge crumbles a bit. Seems like the
jointer would not only get a nice clean edge, but it would be dead
flat as well. I'm thinking of some type of sled.
FWIW - Unless you have carbide cutters on your jointer I don't think
you'll like what the plywood does to the knives. I made the mistake of
edge jointing 3/4 plywood, (to take out some saw marks), and it nicked
the knives pretty badly. I really need to get them sharpened. I really
never knew it until I face jointed some boards and saw the ridges that
the nicked blades made.
Many jointers will bevel the edge to 45 degrees. But do you really want to
use that method for making 45's for your boxes?
The problem is that you will have a difficult time of ending up with pieces
the ending up at the EXACT width or length that they need to be. If your
pieces are not exactly the right size, the 45 degree angles will not close.
When you say "boxes" do you mean jewelry box size
or display stand size? Are you making completely
closed boxes or mitered corners on the front, back
and sides with a bottom in a dado and the lid in a
frame that sits on top?
As others have noted, running ply, even baltic,
russian or finnish ply over HSS jointer knives
is asking for nicked knives. Unless you get the
fence set up just right, exposing the knives
only the EXACT width of the ply you're going to
change the dimensions of the parts if you over
shoot the blade exposure.
There's another way to do mitered corners on
ply that uses a router table, a precision position-
able fence and either a 45 degree chamfer bit
or a "miter lock" router bit. It does require
that all initial parts have
- parallel edges that are square to the face
- straight edges
- square corners
Any errors in the above will show in the finished
joints. The miter lock method also requires some
trial and error set up of the fence AND the height
of the router bit. Here's a link (which has links
to more about this bit and it's set up). All one
line so watch the line wrap.
And here's a web page I just put together on
doing a completely encloded box using a lock
miter bit - just for you. What service!
Again - all one line so watch the line wrap.
hope this gets you further along your journey.
Sorry for the top post....
Thanks for the input Charlie. I'm making toolboxes for my nephews out
of 3/4" bb plywood. If I were to do it over I'd get a "cheap" lock
mitre bit for the router and be done with it.
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