A neighbour has a rusty metal gate that he would like to replace. It is fifteen feet wide but the few places he has asked only supply replacements up to 12 feet wide.
How easy is it to make a wooden gate that size? What thickness of timber would be required? I presume you use one or more thick diagonals and either leave it open, or if privacy is required, nail T&G on top?
Or simply a 12' gate with a 3' gate welded to the end of it or as I have done (with smaller gates that I wanted to fold) hinged one off the other, so no middle post is needed, just a lifting bolt into the ground at the intermediate hinge. It's maybe pushing it a bit, but I don't think adding
3' to a 12' gate will overload it too much (unless the kids all line up along it to swing!)
I've made smaller wooden gates and repaired larger farm gates. Before constructing it you need to consider the function of the gate. Is is to be livestock proof? Cattle / horses can do a lot of damage if for whatever reason they apply weight to a gate. (grass being greener on other side for example). Does it need to keep in small livestock? Does the gate need to be aesthetically pleasing - i.e. will it be in a posh drive entrance position or in a farm yard?
Generally, the heavier you make a gate the more it will cost but also the more strain it puts on the gate post. It is common for gate posts to sag after a few years unless they are suitably strong and have adequate foundations. A gate 15 feet wide will produce a lot of leverage on the gate post. I'd be tempted to make two smaller gates. In fact I do have a pair to make some time in the near future for my own drive.
Perhaps this is obvious, but the diagonals you refer to are most important; they stop the gate itself from sagging, so need to be sturdy.
Horses for courses. Build the gate to meet the particular requirements. I'm sure there are lots of gate designs on the internet if you do a google search, from the traditional five bar gate onwards. They are not difficult to make.
Agree with above. If not put off by the appearance, you might consider "farm gate" hinges, the type where the "moving" bit is a ring on the end of a length of studding; the rings fit over pins cantilevered off the fixed post, the studding lets you easily adjust the clearance at the open side, and adjust for sag on the gate and movement of the hinge post.
Only if the turning moment from the gate is applied all the time. In the normal position(s) of the gate the weight should be supported at both ends, this is good for both the gate and the hinge post.
Or have made, the biggest snag in making yourself is the size and making the joints tight enough such that the gate doesn't move due to loose joints. We had three gates made for here, one is a large field gate, certainly more than the "standard" 12'. It only cost a couple of hundred quid softwood but treated and is still as good now as was new after several years.
See what local timber yards or saw mills can offer.
Personally I'd fit 2 gates if existing posts permit. Otherwise at that length a weight releasing roller at the opposite end to the hinges would reduce sag and weight drop.
Ah, but, the implication was that he would replace his rusty metal gate with a new metal gate if he could, just that the places he's been to only do 12' and not the 15' that he needs.
It might make sense in the circumstances to have the old gate sand blasted and possibly strengthened, depending on condition. There are plenty of mobile sand blasters around. At least he would know that the gate post will take the strain.
It will be quite difficult to make a wooden gate of the required length without making it unduly heavy - perhaps too heavy for the existing gate post.
It is not a farm nor is it a posh house, it's something halfway between the two!
A five bar gate is all he wants really. He is quite happy with the style of a five bar gate. It doesn't need to be any fancier than that.
He doesn't have any livestock to contain, though there was a story about a cow escaping from a farmer's field into his garden once many years ago, so animal resistance would be desirable but not essential.
I think his wife has vetoed two smaller gates!
I would think the metal five bar gate he has now is pretty heavy. I guess I will be asked to angle grind it into smaller pieces when it is replaced! It has very big gate posts already, so I would hope they would withstand the weight of a new gate. OTOH I suppose the metal is hollow. Is a wooden gate much heavier than a steel gate of the same size?
Part of the problem with google is knowing what term to use. Now that I know what they are called, that will help me. So far I can find people wanting to sell me their gates, not help me make my own. I can see pictures on their sites showing the arrangement of the timbers but they do not share the trade secrets of what size the timber has to be!
I have just made a gate 15 feet wide entirely out of 1.75" square wood. I wanted two swinging gates but there is no room for them to swing so it slides with two wheels on a stainless steel rail instead. It has three rails, four diagonals and 40 pickets and was quite easy to make, although it took me a long time.
swinging gate on the left, sliding 15 foot gate on the right. It slides behind the rest of the fence on the right. I made the gates to match the existing fence. I imagine the 15 foot gate would swing OK if hinged to a very strong post.
That's smart! I made a 3' picket gate and it took quite a while. It had to be strong as there were 2 springer spaniels to restrain; eventually there were up to 5 dogs jumping up it. Fortunately I went to an agricultural outlet for the hinges as the bacofoil things in the sheds would have given way.
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