How to stop blacktop deterioraton at a cut edge?
If a strip 2" thick, 7 feet long, 4" wide at the top, and 1" wide at
the bottom, is cut off the edge of a blacktopped road or parking lot,
that was paved 3 year ago for the top layer and longer for the other,
are there steps that should be taken to keep the remaining blacktop
from crumbling, chipping, washing away?
What terms would you use for the kind of deterioration that will
How likely is it, from very unlikely to certain within a year.
Back to the first question, what should be done to prevent any sort of
deterioration? Will it work or will the edge still crumble much
faster than it would have?
If the contractor is already here to do patching, can you guess how
much time the cut wiil take? How much time will the prevention
Should 3 or 6" more be cut off and a new strip put down? This would
double the price, wouldn't it. The Board is in a cheap mode but I
might pay for all or part of it if need be. (I only got conclusive
evidence this is needed on Saturday night.)
On Thursday, August 4, 2016 at 1:28:06 AM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
What was happening at the edge of what was there now? It's the same
stuff, on the same base, as what will be there after it's cut. If
that edge held up OK, then I'd say the new edge will be OK too.
If it's laid on a crappy base, then all bets are off. You could
put a 6x6 or belgian block up against it, but doubt it's worth it.
IDK see the point to cutting 3" or 6" off, how that changes anything.
Cutting it with a saw should only take a matter of minutes.
On Thursday, August 4, 2016 at 8:34:29 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
It's not clear to me (or us) what the current edge is like. If it is currently
tamped at an angle, like this...
...the edge will not be the same once cut.
I'm considering cutting a tamped edge off of the side of my driveway
similar to the "7 feet long, 4" wide at the top and 1" wide at the
bottom" that Micky is asking about. If I do that, I will be replacing
the material that was removed with cold patch. The new outer edge will be
supported by stamped-concrete patio blocks, so I'm not concerned about a
raw edge like Micky is.
It's merely a question of whether or not I decide to replace the dirt
between the driveway and the patio blocks with a nice rectangular patch
or just take the easy way out and fill in the "wedge" as it exists now.
No cutting, just remove the dirt and fill.
Tru dat. In my case, the time it takes to rent/borrow a saw will far, far
exceed the time it will take to make the cut.
On Thu, 4 Aug 2016 08:10:28 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
Sorry it took so long to answer.
I gave some background, but as usual with many posters, I didn't give
That was hot when it was put down, and it was rolled by a little heavy
powered roller, and somehow it is smooth. But I think if someone cuts
into it, it will be more ... I don't know how to describe it -- bumpy,
sponge-like looking (though not porous a sponge) with pieces that
have been almost dislodged by the saw, which will fall out in a little
while, leaving holes for water and ice.
The increased thickness of the pavement is obstructing the water drain
that is there, and in heavy rains it backs up. (Once it got in
someone's car and apparently ruined it, (somehow? I can't quite
imagine why vacuuming out the water and shampooing if necessary
wouldn't fix it.))
None of this happened until the second time this section was repaved
with blacktop. Now the drain, which is 7 feet wide, is only about
2/3rd of it's previous height, 4" instead of 6", and in heavy rain you
can see the water backing up at the opening, sloshing up 6 more inches
like a wave hitting a wall.
Not as uniform as that, partly because it's only an inch for each
layer, and maybe partly because they don't want to hit the cement,
which is edged with angle iron, "lid" to the catch basin. It's a
typical side-of-street drain, 7 feet long of course (since that's the
width of the opening and the catch basin, 3 or 4 feet wide (away from
the road), and 4" high (used to be 6")
My work would be done by a paving company who are coming to patch
chuckholes, including at another part of the road, cutting out a whole
8 foot section that has 60% of all the chuckholes (It's right at the
entrance, for some reason.)
So they should be able to use hot patch, or whatever the opposite of
cold patch is. Would that work to keep the edge from crumbling? How
thick would they have to apply it? I assume they would know how to do
it, but it would help me figure out, with them, how much has to be cut
If I wanted to put anything beside the edge, like blocks, I'd have to
have cut out that much more of the blacktop, and have to have a good
way for to worry about the blocks coming loose. If it can be made to
stay in place without blocks, like your picture above, that would be
I thought about doing it myself**, but I'm afraid I'll cut into the
original, lowest layer, which is no higher than the entrance to the
drain, or that the saw will get away from me and I'll cut down a tree,
and I still would need to do something to keep the edge from
**Or hiring someone in coveralls and a hardhat.
It's good, but that edge was tamped down, each of the two times the
road was repaved. Not sure how to describe it in detail, but it's
not like a saw cut will be.
That would mean cutting out 6 more inches and making sure the blocks
The increased thickness of the pavement is obstructing the water drain
that is there, and in heavy rains it backs up. Once it got in through
the door of a car and it came close to reaching the door sill of my
None of this happened until after the second time the road was
I figured that professionals woudl still charge 100 to 150, plus 50 to
100 to do whatever it is they might do to finish the edge so it
doesn't crumble. Does that sound about right???
Or they might do it cheaper or for free becuase they're being paid
several thousand dollars for what they originally bid on.
Actually the biggest problem is getting the HOA president to believe
me. They had the drain pipe vacuumed 2 years ago when this first
happened, and indeed, a lot of stuff came out. Couldn't tell exactly
what because the 12" vacuum hose was translucent, but there was a lot
including any blacktop that comes off the surface of the entire road
and parking (I'm at the lowest part of the n'hood, 105 houses.). And
they wouldn't go up the hose but I think they were retrieved by
vacuum, stuck to the end of the hose, two thin scooters that little
kis pedal. One of the kids still visits but she's 25 now. As much
as it was, I didn' think it was enough to cause flooding, and sure
enough it flooded again.
So then, the people at the property management company, who it seems
don't know nothin', claimed it needed vacuuming twice a year. This is
a drain that went 30 years without backing up, and yet it supposed to
get clogged in 6 or 12 months. I think they are getting a kickback
from the vacuum company.
Besides what else I've said, this drain gets a tremendous amount of
water, because it drains about 4 acres. There are a few other drains
along the way, but some are on the uphill side of the road. (I've
only checked the problem drain and 3 others. I'll have to go check
all the others in the next rain.)
The roofs lead to gutters that lead to downspouts that for 95%** of
the houses lead to pipes under the ground that come out through the
curb, into the road again. **My house is too far from the road to
drain like that.
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