Woodblock Flooring (Parquet) Over Undefloor heating

[jz5sjg]

Hi,

I have just completed a large extension (approx 50m2) and installed hot water underfloor heating. I have partially tiled it but my better half now wants to install Parquet wood block flooring over the remaining 30m2, to match the rest of the house.

I have my reservaitions about expansion and warping with the heat variations and have heard of complications with moisture content etc. I am keen to lay it but dont want to come home to find speed bumps in my living room. I cant find any info on the internet about this, any ideas? I know that engineered boards would be far more suitable but I'm told that matching it up is a must!!!

Also, does anyone know of any good suppliers of new (not reclaimed) hardwood block flooring? I have been dealing with www.woodenflooringsupplie= s.co.uk, who's prices start at a v reasonable =A315-20pm2 for european oak, but their service is absolutely shocking. I've been trying to get samples from them for weeks, completely incompetant.

Any advice greatly apreciated. SPC

[jz5sjg]

Hi,

I have just completed a large extension (approx 50m2) and installed hot water underfloor heating. I have partially tiled it but my better half now wants to install Parquet wood block flooring over the remaining 30m2, to match the rest of the house.

I have my reservaitions about expansion and warping with the heat variations and have heard of complications with moisture content etc. I am keen to lay it but dont want to come home to find speed bumps in my living room. I cant find any info on the internet about this, any ideas? I know that engineered boards would be far more suitable but I'm told that matching it up is a must!!!

Also, does anyone know of any good suppliers of new (not reclaimed) hardwood block flooring? I have been dealing with www.woodenflooringsupplie= s.co.uk, who's prices start at a v reasonable =A315-20pm2 for european oak, but their service is absolutely shocking. I've been trying to get samples from them for weeks, completely incompetant.

Any advice greatly apreciated. SPC

[The Natural Philosopher]

You should be able to use Parquet. I sorta wish I had..

Mmm. They are just middle men.

[mail]

Dear SPC I would work out carefully from the thickness and species of the woodblocks just how much heat you are going to stop from coming up into the room. Data do exist for such calculations so it should not be difficult to google. Basically the denser the timber the more likely it is to retain heat and not let it through. Once you have found the ideal thickness and species with which you are satisfied the next problem will be to ensure that they are equilibrated to the same mc that it is likely to be in situ. This can be calculated by determining the likely temperature and RH and hence the projected mc.

Next will be the problem of how to fix them in a suitable medium that will stick it down and still transfer heat AND allow for some movement.when moisture contents vary. All in all some pretty careful assessment and design will need to be done if you are to have both a structurally sound floor and heat transfer. Much depends on your Delta T - my water circulates at 33/34 so is not very hot and so I need to have as little insulation from carpets and wood as practical. A higher difference will be more tolerant of thicker timber. Have you considered parquet as opposed to blocks?

Regardless, I would get SWIMBO to sign a disclaimer as I share your concern at her ideas and would go for a tiled floor myself! Chris

[Clot]

My father built a house in the early 50's with solid floor and parquet flooring throughout the ground floor installing central heating using large bore gravity system. The pipes where about 2 inches into the concrete below the parquet. We had speed bumps and rattles when trodden on. Today, thay are all covered by carpetting with no sight of the parquet flooring and no rattles. Your situation is different but the heating will be close to any parquet flooring and could suffer similarly.

HTH