Wiring question

Either are acceptable so long as you can get a good firm termination. The only time folding is really needed is with a small diameter wire into a large terminal, where you may not otherwise be able to get the screw to grip it.

I strip both wires so they're long enough to be gripped by both screws, if there's room. Just seems better, doubt if it's compliant with anything.

Cheers

That's an interesting approach.

I do that with in-line choc block, if there's room under the screw, as it should reduce the chance of a loose connection.

I was taught that you fold the when you're terminating it, ie it is the sole wire entering the terminal, and flat otherwise, ie there is more than one wire entering the terminal.

Would there be an argument for putting both leads into the same side, so each terminal has two wires going into it, then the wires are in physical contact and the space is better filled?

I don't have a preference, it depends on the space I'm putting it in. If it's two cables coming in from the same side I'd put them into the block side by side. If it's something coming in one end and going out somewhere else I'd do it end to end, eg a neutral return passing through a light switch, eg in the wiki:

Thanks. It's actually (unusually) a radial circuit for the computer. I am bypassing an existing socket so only two wires to deal with and plenty of space in the box for the terminal block. It seems to me putting them both into the same side would guarantee a solid connection and avoid any risk in bending.

A friend - a retired electrical engineer from a major electricity supply company - will be checking it so my aim is to impress him !!!

Just crimp the silly things then.

Ah, but should I crimp them end to end or side by side?

Always aim to as near as possible fill the space in a connector, to minimise resistance. Sometimes you can put two wires in from opposite ends and long enough to be caught by both screws. Sometimes you can feed both in from one end. The idea is to minimise the current flowing through the connectors metalwork, by having the copper side by side. Fold them over too, if you possibly can.

In the days when we used to solder cable lugs on large cables, if the lug's socket was a little large, we would be taught to build the copper up with a layer of copper wire wound around it, rather than rely on the lead solder.

Neither. Solder and protect with heat-shrink tube. Now are you going to solder them in-line or sticking out? ;)

Actually. If you are bypassing a socket, I'd go for two in one side of choc-block minimising movement from the current setup and being easily removed in the future if you want to re-instate the socket at any time.

SteveW

Thanks. I'm going to do that this morning!

Does this mean you can use a smaller connector block to ensure a good fit, on the basis that if the wires are in contact there is no current flowing through the connector block?

Now done. I hope it passes inspection!

With domestic mains wiring no, the connector must be rated as required. If you were designing an appliance and the connections were always done this w ay, a downrated connector could be justified. Though if you think no curren t would flow through then you're not skilled enough to do that.

NT

Thanks. Maybe not no current but a current within the capabilities of a 'downrated' connector. However, your first comment is determinative as the work will be inspected.

That's ok if the socket position is having a blanking plate on it so its still visible, and the screw terminals will remain accessible for maintenance.

If you are filling in the socket recess, then the joint needs to be a maintenance free joint (crimp, solder, wago etc). Also consider if removing all trace of the socket, whether the cables are going to still be in a permitted zone.

Which is the case here. Also accessible for inspection :-)

I think I would want a continuous cable run in that situation.