Wiring of Kitchen extractor

Just wondered if you need to put a plug on there, I mean is it essential or can you go into a fused outlet.

It only has flex wire from it and not sure if you can use the in switched outlets can you?

Reply to
Gogs
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either is fine. Plug & socket is more flexible, so generally preferred, though doubtless some will prefer the fcu.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

IIRC an ordinary DP switched FCU doesn't comply with regs for a fan. The earth has to switched as well, hence the special "fan isolator" switches that you fit next to an FCU. A plug and socket would of course isolate the earth when unplugged...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Given the position of these things it's often easier to use a lighting circuit. But if feeding from a ring an FCU or plug is ok.

Not sure what you mean? FCUs with flex outlet are available.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Be interesting to hear an explanation of the theory behind this. And do many extractor fans have earths anyway these days?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

What on earth is the reason behind that?

Pete

Reply to
Pete Verdon

Not quite, there are typically 3 types of fan.

1 - Runback timer fans with external trigger - L1 L2 + N + E, requires 3P "fan-isolator" which switches L1 L2 N (not Earth). 2 - Runback timer fans with integral switch - L + N + E, requires 2P isolator which switches L+N. 3 - Plain fans internally switched - L + N + E, requires 2P isolator which switches L+N.

The no. 2 is quite rare, an example is Xpelair GXC6T which is a cord switched, thermal shuttered, with internal runback timer. I recall a frustrated spark demanding to fit a 3P isolator, then switch the earth, then remove the fan because it was "incorrect".

A switched socket does not require plug removal, which tends to be frowned upon (use unswitched to force plug removal).

If you stick a cooker hood, fan or such on a lighting circuit some notes.

1 - Similarly the socket should be unswitched so isolation requires plug removal. 2 - Check if the device requires 3A fusing so precludes the use of 5A lighting plug/socket & relying on the lighting circuit 6A CPD. 3 - If using 5A lighting plug/socket, the plug may not have shielded pins (tends to upset some). 4 - Use of a T-bar earth 13A plug provides 3A fuse capability if required & prevents other BS1363 plugged appliances using the lighting circuit. 5 - Alternative DP SFCU where no timed trigger feed (L2) is preferred but can be impossible to wire due to reach over cupboards.

The 3P "fan-isolators" are actually labelled L1 L2 N.

If the isolator is remote, a lock-off capability is required (padlock thro fuseholder or switchlockout). Watch location of extractor to hob etc, it must not be immediately above. Cooker hoods have min height requirements.

Reply to
js.b1

I have the extractor ready to be mounted at 750mm above the gas hob as that is the size of splash back I bought due to something I read.

I have a Volex 13A Sw FCU in the vicinity and was hoping to connect the extractor directly into that but not being an expert and with the recent batch of tradesmen (or so called) to cross the front door I would really like to check with some more knowlegeable people.

The FCU features Double Pole Switch for Total Isolation if that changes anything....I also seem to recall someone saying it was on 'my ring main' or something along that lines. It can be isolated in the consumer unit by flicking the 32a breaker which does all the downstairs sockets.

The hood I am using can be seen here -

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is the Chimney LA-OC model.

What I meant when I spoke about flex, I was meaning the cable from the hood, its not just solid copper wire like I see in my sockets and switches for example it seems to be (strands) geared towards fitting a plug to it, which I am guessing you can, however I was not sure if this was a requirement to fit a plug or if it would be possible to go straight into the FCU.

If I get someone out I dont want them making an arse of it basically or doing a cowboy job.

I asked a family friend who lives quite a bit away so he couldnt look at it for me and he said it should be ok but make sure the 13a fuse is removed and replaced with a 5a one.

Again I wouldnt say he is a pro so based on what I have said what option would be best suited?

Reply to
Gogs

FCUs with a cord outlet are designed to make a connection to flex. But there's no magical difference between the type of connection used for solid core or flex.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

There is no requirement to switch a protective earth (IIRC, there is a requirement that you don't). (many fans will be class 2 anyway and not require an earth)

If the switch is not in the same room as the fan then there will be a requirement that it can be locked off for maintenance.

The requirement for a three poll switch occurs when you have separate permanent and switched live feeds to the fan as well as the neutral.

A DP FCU with flex outlet is fine for fans which only require L+N feeds.

Reply to
John Rumm

I sit corrected thank you. It was this I was thinking of.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Note that some fans instructions may stipulate protection at 3A or below, so additional fusing may still be required on lighting circuits.

Reply to
John Rumm

The triple pole isolators are to isolate the switched live, the permanent live (for timed override), and the neutral. Fans with timed override are more at home in bathrooms than kitchens.

Reply to
Graham.

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