Why not LED bulbs?

[Andrew]

My Liebherr fridge does the same.

The light is energised via a resistor in the electromachanical thermostat box, so that it flickers at about half intensity.

[Jeff Layman]

That must be several years old. My Liebherr LED fridge light takes a few seconds to achieve full brightness after the door opens (why? is it for night raiders who can't stand a sudden blinding light?!). I also doubt it has an electromechanical thermostat, as there isn't much need for one when it can have an internet connection. Not that I'd use it.

[Steve Walker]

It's also used with some model railway systems to limit short circuit current.

SteveW

[Brian Reay]

We've several lights which use 2xG9 40W halogens. The fitting is enclosed, unvented, but quite large- maybe 200mm square, metal, with a frosted glass cover. Bulb life isn't as good as I'd like, under 12mth at an estimate. I've tried LED replacements in one room (the kitchen) with LEDs supposedly equivalent to 40W. Hopeless.

This was, perhaps, 2 years back, so things may have improved- other LED bulbs certainly have.

I'm considering fitting some of the flat 'cob', 240V AC panels to the fittings or converting to take normal LED bulbs.

[Brian Reay]

Probably not that smooth, you need a good light for shaving ;-)

[Tim Watts]

What's "shaving"?

[Max Demian]

It's what Alexander of Macedon did so he would resemble his boyfriends.

[invalid]

You would have to have some pretty old stuff, modern stuff (last 40 years or so) trips when there is a short and supplies next to no current until the short is removed.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

It's also a good trick to protect a loudspeaker. Something like a car headlight bulb in series. If you think your kids might have a party when you're out. ;-)

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Only place here with no dimmers is the hallway. ;-)

[Vir Campestris]

Some do, some don't.

The ones with a decent PSU don't but a lot just have a capacitor.

Andy

[DerbyBorn]

Tim Watts [e-mail] wrote in news:ugeicf-9c4.ln1 @squidward.local.dionic.net:

Not dimming then - bit brightening!

[Steve Walker]

It is apparently still used as a cheap way, with high power DCC boosters, to prevent a short on one section shutting down the rest. Yes, I know about DCC power districts, but that involves more, pricey kit.

I have no need of such things as I am not bothered if the whole layout trips.

SteveW

[Steve Walker]

The, very old, model railway set that I saw in a museum was frightening. It was designed for the operator to remove the bulb from the room's light fitting, connect the controller in its place and fit the bulb to the controller as a dropper resistor. Of course this meant that if the loco derailed and there was no load, the track voltage would rise to mains voltage - eek!

SteveW

[tabbypurr]

the earliest sets were like that, provoked discussion in parliament iirc. The 1st edition of the wiring regs in 1882 didn't address shock rick at all.

NT

[invalid]

dcc controllers are pretty cheap if you use dcc++ or the newer one based on an esp32 board.

Mine cost me ~£15 using an old laptop psu and old android phones as throttles.

[Adam Funk]

That's one way to teach your friends/kids not to mess with your train set.

[Adam Funk]

That's a great idea & I think you've mentioned it previously. If only I could remember to do it when I'm actually changing one...

[John Rumm]

I notice the LED hut ones actually have a date printed on the glass along with the spec.

[John Rumm]

I notice the LED hut ones actually have a date printed on the glass along with the spec.