Why is an EV's backup power less than it's driving power?

Rewrite all that considering I know the difference between power and energy, I have a f****ng physics degree. When I said 80kW I meant 80kW, not 80kWh. Do you seriously think a car motor only draws 10kW?

And that last link doesn't tell you how to do it, just sales waffle about Ford are getting to it.

Pretty easy really, you find the 400V battery wire and connect a convertor to it to make 240VAC.

Cables don't cost much, especially if they're short.

It's a pest, you have to switch stuff off.

Not if it's bursts, like cooking a meal or having a hot shower.

They usually are. If it was plugged in when the powercut started, it would have just been charging.

A Nissan Leaf would power the average house for 3 days. And decent electric cars have a battery 3 times bigger.

That's only for convenience.

$13.

Then fit it yourself.

Rules are for the obedience of fools.

If you have 24kW in the house, you might aswell fit a charger as such.

Park the car nearer the house.

This is a newsgroup, so I'm talking to whoever reads the post.

You need to shop around. I can get one for half the price that does 8kW. Anyway they have electronics to communicate with the car.

A grand actually.

Why would you do that knowing you can only get 10kW at a time? You'd spread the usage out.

Do you like being ripped off? $1K

Finally, you understood and answered my question. The difference between 10kW backup mode and 80kW driving mode is sustainability.

You're the one getting mixed up with kW and kWh.

Arrested for using your car battery for something else, yeah right.

And you too, or you would have written them down.

And in sensible countries with a proper voltage, the slowest charger plugs into a proper 13A 240V socket and gives out 3kW.

So use it next week then.

You have dryers that use 6kW?! I know American clothes are much larger, but still....

Just go for it and have a 24kW charger.

A post can be read and responded to by anyone. When I said "And why do people say it costs tho.....", you didn't seem to know who I was talking to, I can't tell to help you out now, since you snipped the attributions.

But you weren't talking about invertors, you said EVSE.

Because I live cheaply on Chinese stuff. 99p for an 18650 battery charger!

You switch one off while you cook. It's only for the duration of the power outage.

I did no such thing. If you believe I did, show me where I did.

If you join the outputs together from three of those, would they phase synch?

I fit what I want to fit, not what they want to fit. My house, my wiring. Easy enough to get a 24kW commercial charger destined for a car park and wire it to your house.

A garage is for storing things and for a workshop. The car lives outside.

You do that at 240V, so not expensive.

Don't use surplus words.

No, use the same cable, electrons will go both ways.

Noisy, and prone to not starting. I hate one cylinder "engines".

Nobody checks that s*it, just fit it. You can have a manual switch which will obviously do the same job. In the UK technically it's illegal for me to fit a new 13A outlet. WTF?!

You misunderstand. A manual switch would also do the same. And a power transfer switch is just a relay, very cheap indeed. I had one when I tried solar power (which is a dead loss in Scotland, no sun).

Why do you run your house on DC?

At 240 volts, the cable will be cheap as it's thinner than a 12V one. Or you could run it at 400V DC from the car to there for even less, and put the invertor near the panel.

And if there's a powercut while they're already on? Now you trip the thing and your meal is half cooked and other stuff goes off like your computer and the DVR that was recording stuff.

More like 1500.

To have the full 24kW would be more convenient, you carry on regardless.

That's a weak 8kW charger you're talking about. And assuming you came home with an empty battery.

If you're out you don't need power.

I want 24kW, not 80. And I don't use that continuously.

I guess most 220V stuff will run DC or AC.