Yesterday my power was off for 7 hours. I survived. I thought
maybe my setup would help others come up with ideas to protect
Of course there are generators, but they are quite expensive
if your power outages are rare.
I use a 12V deep discharge battery and a wall-wart trinkle
charger. I have a little 12V oscillating fan and a small 12V
flouresent light unit. So far this has worked well for me,
even in the 90 degree + temperature inside yesterday. When you
are old as I am the very heavy battery is hard to move around
so plan its home and your usual power outage retreat to be
Perhaps if you have no power backup you might consider
something like this. The battery is by far the most expemsive
I bought my generator and had transfer panel installed over 10 years ago
but would be interested in today's offerings that can do the whole house
with a generator that does not have the capacity to handle all in the
house. I do not think these systems are super expensive. I could live
with short outages with flashlights and batteries and even well not
pumping water but outages over a day in extremely cold weather can make
the home tough to live in. Also over half day lack of refrigeration
leads to food spoilage.
A few years ago when hurricane remnants were rampant you could not find
a generator to buy but after the storm was gone you might be able to buy
a returned one at half price.
On 8/26/2017 12:33 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I bought a 5500 watt generator and charged it off to the small
business I was running at the time . I used it to power my MIG welder to
do on-site installs/modifications to AC security cages . I use it now to
back feed my main panel from the shop panel when our power goes out -
but only if it's for more than half a day (their estimates are usually
pessimistic , but if they say 3 days ...) . I can run everything but the
40 gallon main water heater . And it has enough hot water for 3-4
showers and we have a POU unit for the kitchen sink and dishwasher .
bit and found generators for service trucks but nothing like I remember seeing in the magazine. ?(?)?
Years ago there was plenty of room under the hood of most cars. Now it
looks like just one chunk of stuff. No room for ahything that was not
put in at the factory. Maybe the trucks have more room.
The smaller , say about 5 kw generators are not all that expensive, but
the HF 700 watt unit is good for a few LED or CFL lamps and a small TV.
It does not use all that much gas either.
On Sat, 26 Aug 2017 11:38:25 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
They used to sell a regulator you could put on a car alternator that
put out 120v AC but at a very high frequency. It would run "universal"
motors (typically ones with brushes) or regular lights. I suppose it
also would work with wide mouth switching power supplies like new
I looked for a regulator or just a hack to make my little alternator
backup machine put out 40v or so that would charge my golf cart. That
is a big pack of deep cycle batteries that could be used in an
So far, no joy on that. I can still use my machine to charge the
batteries 2 at a time.
Since then I did get a regular 5500w generator that I have never used
in 6 years. It is still in the box.
I'm not sure if it's true or not - I once heard that after years of
un-use - the magnets < field magnets ? > can lose their
magnetic-ness or sumpthin'
So your unused engine might still work fine but the generator won't.
On Sun, 27 Aug 2017 07:14:38 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
SOMETIMES they require a re-flash - but generally not from sitting.
More likely from improper shut-down. (Shutting of the generator under
full load is almost guaranteed to yield a dead generator).
Different methods for brush type and brushless excitation - Be
Mine has run out of gas a few times under load
< probably not full load > with no issues.
I do try to catch it and shut down before this happens ..
... not sure about the excitation on my Honda EM5000 ?
ps: I once worked at the 25 Hz generating station at the
foot-of-the-Falls .. Niagara that is - the exciters were the size
of a bloated 45 gallon drum ; the governors were on the mezzanine
above - powered by a huge long flat belt - quite-the-classroom !
On Sun, 27 Aug 2017 03:53:45 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
Those kits did NOT put out high frequency AC. They did not bypass
the diodes, as doing so would produce 3 Phase AC. I installed quite a
few of them over the years. My Sas used them on his trucks to run the
drill to do electrical rough-ins on houses where grid power was not
available. They only worked on cetsin alternators with external
regulators as what they did was disconnect the output ftom the
vehicle, redirecting it to the attatched outlet, anf full-fielding the
alternator. There was no regulator involved (at least on the
BellTronics units) and voltage regulation was by adjusting the
throttle. There was a voltmeter on the unit and an adjustable throttle
block - basically a stick between either the seat or the steering
wheel and the accellerator that was adjustable. A vernier throttle
cable (newfy cruise control) was available as an option.
Harbor Freight has a small generator for about $ 90 when on sale, or use
the 20% off coupond they put out every week.
It is suppose to be good for 700 watts and run for several hours off
the gas before refilling.
I bought one as I have an electric pole saw and wanted to power it away
from the house. Look at the Youtube videos on them.
You can mount it on a small dolly or use a hand truck to move it if you
think it is too heavy.
Sometimes they seem hard to start, so you may want to get a can of
starter fluid .
Buy a cheap digital voltmeter and check the battery voltage while it is charging.
If it goes much above 13.8 Volts and you leave it that way 24/7, it will loose water.
The better trickle chargers regulate to 13.8V or less.
If it is much below 13.5V 24/7 the battery will sulfate.
The float voltage is critical for long shelf life.
Measured it yesterday. 12.9 to 13.0 volts DC on battery terminals.
To avoid sulfation I assume I need a new charger. Trouble is, who knows
what the output voltage will really be? Can't trust package or ad info on
line. Too late to find out after I unwrap it and plug it in. I suppose I
could buy a big fancy expensive charger with output voltage control, if
such a thing exists. <sigh>
is there no load on it?
let it sit a few days and see if the voltage comes up.
If the battery was discharged and the charger is small, it can take a while for the voltage to come up,,,, a while..... as in days.
On Tuesday, September 5, 2017 at 12:54:07 PM UTC-4, KenK wrote:
Not clear exactly the whole situation here. But the smart battery
tenders have charging algorithms and are not simply dumb trickle
chargers like they were years ago. I think they raise the voltage
to charge, then when fully charged they back off and monitor,
then charge again when and if needed. MEaning what you see there
isn't necessarily static. Have you pulled up the specs on whatever
the actual charger is and how it's supposed to operate?
The charger is a Deltran Battery Tender Junior which you mentioned in
The manual doesn't mention the voltage used for charging, that I can
find, only the current (which I don't recall off-hand).
You say it is a well-respected bramd so I suppose I should stop worrying
and let it do its thing.
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