Motorhome power supply.

The mains to 12v power supplied failed in a mate's motorhome, so although he got it replaced I offered to look at it to see if it could be repaired as a spare.

It is branded PowerPart, and is a 20 amp 13.8v device which charges the leisure battery as well as running any 12v things when on mains. Cost about 100 quid.

It was well and truly fried. Only heatsink for the power Mosfets was the thin ally case - and a small cooling fan. Not that much for a device likely mounted inside a cupboard of some sort.

Rectifier was short circuit and a transformer burnt with half the laminations lying loose inside the case, so gave up.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
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Some of the rip-off merchants are asking £145 for it! The leisure market is a right scam. Always buy from elsewhere if possible.

Bill

Reply to
Bill Wright

Dave Plowman (News) used his keyboard to write :

There is a UK after market replacement with a good reputation, at around the same cost. My own PSU was mounted to draw cool air in via the floor. I soon found the disadvantage with that, was that on the road all sorts of muck would be ingested. It had a better heatsink than you described, but the cooling fan had failed due to the muck it had swallowed. New fan and move it to not draw air from the outside and it has been fine since.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

£100 for a simple PSU - and they still couldn't make it properly?

Sounds like a good application for a 200VA transformer, bridge rectifier and nice lumpy heatsink.

Reply to
Tim Watts

It *should* be rather more than a 'simple' PSU as the battery charging circuit needs to have some cleverness to charge a lead acid battery properly.

I think you'd be surprised how expensive that would be, transformers in particular are quite pricey. A PC switch mode PSU would probably be cheaper for that sort of rating (though would likely have lots of

5v and 3.3v output as well).
Reply to
Chris Green

Some stuff sourced for Ham radio operators seem to be quite good for this purpose I think, but they are not cheap if well built with adequate cooling. Most are switch mode these days which may well help with the problems of dissipation greatly, though many have a minimum current as well as a max one.

Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

JOOI do motorhomes separate the battery from the distribution circuits when connected to the mains? I ask only as I wondered if it might work out cheaper to fit (a) a "Smart" battery charger (

Reply to
Robin

It happens that Tim Watts formulated :

I'm not sure I would want that across an expensive leisure battery.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Robin used his keyboard to write :

They use a system of the battery supplying the load, with a charger/PSU in parallel with the battery - so PSU is able to both source the load and charge the battery. Some of the later PSU are able to act intelligently in their charging of the battery. I seem to recall some have a link able to be set, for the various battery chemistries.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Think you'd be hard pressed to make a 20 amp limear supply to retail at about 100 quid?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Blurb with it suggests it's just a regulated 13.8v PS. Which should be OK for the sort of charging use it would normally get.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

[snip]

We are 'boatey' people but have essentially similar setup, a large bank of leisure batteries which are used to make us independent of mains electricity when away from moorings with mains power.

We don't ever disconnect the batteries when using shore power, the chargers we have (mains powered, rarely used now, and solar powered which provide most of what we need) are simply left permanently connected to the batteries. So there's no requirement for a separate

12 volt power supply for use when mains is available.

I did have a power supply on a boat in the UK (the above one is in France) which could be switched between 'charger' mode and '12v supply' mode but I assumed the '12v supply' mode was for use when one wanted to disconnect the battery completely for some reason. Otherwise I always left it in 'charger' mode with the battery providing voltage stability.

Reply to
Chris Green

Yes, our chargers have settings for different battery types (not different chemistries really, they're all lead-acid).

Reply to
Chris Green

I think the OP seemed to have separate battery charger and 12v supply hardware.

Reply to
Chris Green

12V 32A, silent, six quid:
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and it's possible to tweak the voltage upwards:

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slightly easier on a different version:
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Theo

Reply to
Theo

Not really. A lead-acid battery should be charged to something like

14.5 volts to get it fully charged (and it's important to get them fully charged sometimes). Then, when it's fully charged, the charger should drop back to 13.5 volts or so to maintain the battery in 'float'. Most 'intelligent' lead-acid battery chargers will do something like this, the 14.5 volts guarantees full charge but if maintained long term will make the battery gas. Really clever chargers will occasionally wake up out of float mode and do a sort of battery conditioning sequence.

(All voltages above are 'typical', they're the ones that vary slightly with battery chemistry and temperature)

Reply to
Chris Green

That will be a switch mode supply I think, no big mains transformer in it. The above is more like the 'PC switch mode PSU' which I said would be cheaper.

Reply to
Chris Green

There are some switch mode ones around which aren't bad, mainly for the amateur radio market BUT they are power supplies not chargers- which is (hopefully) what was being used to charge the battery in the motorhome. A proper charger will help ensure the battery/batteries are not over heated etc and, assuming the motorhome has a proper smart controller, interface with it to ensure the vehicle battery is also charged when on mains, the leisure battery/batteries are charged by the vehicle when the engine is running, and interface to any solar system.

I think the charger in mine is about £140. Allowing for the extra functions it has, over and about a basic switch mode PSU, and its quality, it isn't a bad price. I'm not sure how expensive the main control unit is- several hundred at a guess.

Sticking in just a transformer, rectifier, etc is a sure fire way to ruin a leisure battery BDQ.

'Ready made' conversions seem to come with integrated 'smart' electronic/electrical systems these days. Mine has a unit which controls the 12V and mains- well the breakers for the mains- and interfaces with the vehicle system and a battery charger. It does everything from controlling the 12V master switches to sensing water levels in fresh and waste tanks. Later ones even interface with your phone.

Those who do their own conversions seem to go for discrete sub-subsystems- you can buy sensors and displays for water levels etc. - and simply install a domestic consumer unit and a battery charger etc.

To comply with the 'construction and use' regs, much of the 'domestic' electrics should be disabled when the vehicle is in motion- the commercial control boxes do this but I suspect most self builds don't bother. No doubt, in time, someone will decide this needs to be checked as part of the MOT ;-(

Reply to
Brian Reay

Why does a Playstation need 32A? Could it be perhaps 3.2A?

Reply to
Brian Reay

I was wondering the same thing.

Reply to
newshound

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