Why are kitchen worktops so thick?

I can see worktops in most even mm thicknesses between 12 and 42mm, I suppose they tend to be thicker because most kitchens will have some double base units of 1000 or 1200, also thin worktops probably get classed as "cheapskate" ...

It's mainly a fashion thing! With chipboard, they used to be

Here's a 12mm one from Wickes:

Probably because chipboard is cheap...

In some cases it will need to span things like a double appliance space

- so say 1.2m unsupported.

Could work ok, although much modern plywood has very thin face veneers.

You can also get blockboard worktops fairly cheaply - these are solid wood - albeit assembled from lots of staves of thinner stock. Probably better looking than ply, and will take more abuse. Can also be sanded and refinished as and when required.

Yup, deep lippings can be made to make it look more substantial that it is. This worktop:

Interesting point.

I recall the worktops in the houses I lived in as a youngster. They were made of Formica over a thinner base board, probably no more than 20 mm thick overall.

When first married and students, we rent two places - both built in the 60s or 70s- which had similar worktops.

I fitted a kitchen in our first house in about 1982. By then, thick worktops were the norm. I bought 3m lengths which must have been 30mm thick.

Our next house, had a kitchen which had been built and fitted by the previous own. He hand crafted the cabinets etc. I saved a section of the worktop - with 3 drawers- to use a work bench in the shed. When we moved here, I moved it. It forms part of the bench in the garage. He had made the work top from 3/4 block board sheet, covered with Formica. I believe he made it in the 1960s.

A few years ago I bought some 25mm worktop from Wickes and your post made me look again.

I can see worktops in the following widths:

I do accept most are 38mm and probably down to expectation of thickest is bestest.

Kitchen work-surfaces can take a great deal of abuse, whereas plywood is going to be soft and not survive well as a cutting surface.

Having said that I have come across tiled (on wood) work-surfaces that are very rugged and take a lot of abuse from sharp knives.

YMMV

Knifework direct[y on a tiled surface, is a good way to abuse sharp knives

Using 18mm plywood for your boat's worktop is a great idea, as it's lightweight, strong, and well-supported by the cupboards. Adding a half-round edge and incorporating **kitchen tiles** for added style and durability could make it both practical and attractive!

Diamond sharpeners work magic on them

Anyway who doesn't use a cutting board of wood or polythene anyway?

I'd be perfectly happy with tiled worktops in terms of hygiene and the ability to clean. The only problem is dropping hard objects on them, which is why I have worktops of stippled gabbro, or solid oak,

I almost never cut on anything BUT a cutting board. They get scored to s*it, yes, but who cares? They are sacrificial items.

The problem with tiles is the gaps between them. We have tiled splashbacks on the boat (where this all started) and while the tiles are nice and clean the grout is very grey.

You should never cut on to a worktop. If it is ‘soft’ you will damage it and leave cuts where dirt etc can collect. If it is hard - eg tiled - you will blunt the knife.

Always use a cutting board that can be cleaned and won’t damage the knife edge.

Ideally, have colour coded cutting boards for uncooked meat, veg, fish, and cooked food which can be washed.

I use cheap plastic ones and run them through the dishwasher every night.

Wood is OK, but expensive and vulnerable to damage

I never said you should. However my experience is that some idiot will and then damage the surface.

I'd sooner a ruined blade that can be resharpened than a cut on a work-surface.

Agreed.

There is a convention:

My son's house had a blockboard worktop from Ikea when he moved in. Very nice, but the area around the tap was constantly wet and had rotted. Previously a rental for a while, so no commitment to care.

As far as I recall the worktop was substantially thinner than the current worktops.

I assume that one great benefit of wood strands embedded in a resin is that the whole thing is waterproof so small leaks around edges do minimal damage.

Cheers

Dave R

Not only may they have to span a couple of appliances (we have one that spans dishwasher, tumble dryer and washing machine, but I managed to fit support in), but people stand on them to change a light, decorate, clean out cupboards, etc.

We have plastic cutting boards, but out worktops are granite. No disasters dropping things in the four years that they have been there.

Granite - or gabbro - is in my opinion the best there is bar none.

But stainless steel over 30mm chip is good too. And for places not likely to get splashed oak board is nice.

Melamine coated chip is OK. As are tiles. But neither are as tough as the aforementioned options

Prior to the granite, we had normal, 38mm, melamine coated chipboard worktop. I cannot remember the make, just the pattern (Orange Storm) and we did not get it from a normal supplier, but much cheaper, straight from a warehouse (directly opposite where my father was working and they knew him). That stuff was nigh on indestructible. It withstood knives, hot pans and oven trays, etc. for 27 years and was only replaced as we were re-arranging the kitchen and needed different lengths, cut-outs, etc.

Our worktop, installed by me in 1989, is still nick and scratch free.

Yes. In fact the bog standard 'cheap' worktops were extremely good. Today's are not melamine, but something far softer.

I've installed more kitchens than I can count and there isn't a lot to beat coated chip and a stainless steel sink and drainer.

Silicone along the back edge of the worktop to seal it and a couple of rows of cheap tiles to act as a splash back.

On a limited budget, it doesn't get much better than that.