Which Screwfix(?) mitre saw?

[Lobster]

I'll soon by embarking on fitting new skirting to an entire 3-bedroomed house, and want to buy a mitre saw to make the task easier. Last time I had to do this job I just used a marking gauge and pencil, and want to save some time... I'll be using 4" MDF skirting, just standard 45-degree external mitres.

I don't see much point in a power saw for the amount of work (or should I be looking at them?), as obviously the majority of corners will be internal and not mitred. I note three different models at Screwfix for between 15 and 25 quid.

I'm not sure of the difference between them - anyone familiar with them? Which is the best for what I want?

Cheers David

[Grunff]

They differ only in how crappy a result they can achieve. Seriously, avoid this type of saw, they are a nightmare.

If you can justify buying a sliding mitre saw, do that, but you need to spend at least £150 to get a reasonable one

not, buy a mitre box and a hardpoint saw.

[Jim Alexander]

The manual compound mitres are rubbish. The saws are blunt after one cut if not before. The compound mitre has the adjustment to cut your skirting vertically but you would be better with a wide enough mitre box to take your skirting lying flat and use a decent saw.

Depending on the width of the mitre box slot you may need a tenon saw or open up the slot and use a hardpoint which cuts better. Not critical since you just want 45deg to do a scribed cut.

Jim A

[Newshound]

My "cheapy" has induction hardened teeth and is fine after perhaps a couple of dozen pieces of skirting. I think it came from Wickes.

[Lobster]

OK, thanks, glad I asked! I have an old wooden mitre box in fact but being only about 2" deep is no use for skirting; until I read your post above I have to admit I hadn't realised that you can get them to hold the workpiece flat (as shown in the link I quoted, now that I look more closely!) That's clearly the best route for me here.

Thanks again David

[meow2222]

I'd go with an electric mitre saw. It'll save some time, but much more usefully you'll find loads of other uses for it later on. Even a cheap one will do an ok job if you pay attention to its deficiencies. On cheap saws always line up cut line on wood with edge of teeth by eye, forget about the markings on the base. And I learnt the hard way, be very gentle when cutting, always. Unless you have Munchausen's.

NT

[Tim Lamb]

In message , Jim Alexander writes

For those of us brought up on B&D joint masters:-)

Certainly not fully fit for purpose but they can do a job. My cheapo is mounted on a base for easy clamping in a bench vice. There is an element of positive feed back in that tooth snatch flexes the frame and saw guides leading to more snatch which flexes the......

Once set up for a repetitive job, I cramp the frame solid which helps. Blades are slow but OK if protected from rust.

The biggest downside I find is the amount of storage space required if left assembled.

regards