I've one in the Sammy but the recording is unreliable - recording the lectures at Christmas as a series managed only one. Can't remember the make of drive; it's 64GB and no longer made. You might be better sticking with the HDD.
Presumably an SSD as opposed to a USB 'stick' would work as it will appear to be a 'disk drive' as opposed to a 'memory stick'. You can certainly get SSDs (well, things that call thenmselves SSDs) which are pretty close in size and shape to a USB 'stick'.
Since they're actually basically the same technology it's all a bit silly really, but how you *tell* whether something is really a 'disk drive' as opposed to a 'memory stick' without buying it and trying it I don't know. The USB memory stick market is rife with fake devices.
I don't record direct to external storage device. I record on computer and copy over. There is no problem what external device I use, providing it can play back fast enough.
I don't think it needs to be /that/ fast - the TV only has USB2 sockets so far as I can tell (no mention in the manual and they're not blue, as I think USB
3s are). But as I say, USB sticks I've got don't work - just wondering if anyone has used one successfully.
I can think of three things that might be different:
The USB stick might present itself as 'removable' storage, while the HDD doesn't. I'm a bit doubtful of that because the usual use of 'removable' is CDs/DVDs, where you have a tray you can 'eject' to change the medium. That doesn't apply to a USB stick, where you simply unplug the whole drive.
Also, I understand some TVs have minimum size limitations. A 32/64/128GB USB drive might not work, while a 250/500/1000GB HDD does. The only way to find out is to try a suitable large device. If you don't have one, I suppose you could try an old 60GB or 120GB HDD in a USB caddy (if you have such a thing) and see if it's accepted.
Finally, another thing is if the stick is strangely formatted/partitioned in the way the TV doesn't like. I might try zapping the partition table and making a single empty FAT32 partition on an MBR partition table, and then asking the TV to reformat it. That way the TV is unlikely to be confused by the Windows recovery partition or whatever was left on there before.
Just because a stick can be plugged into a usb2 or usb 3 port it doesn't mean that the speed of the stick matches what the port is capable of delivering.
Many PVRs HDDs are formatted to Ext3/4 rather than FAT32 etc.
The USB config space either indicates RMB=0 or RMB=1 . (Search for the section with RMB in it, here.)
formatting link
That is the "Removable Media Bit".
USB used to be pretty consistent at one time, that they were always removable.
But a few Sony sticks, started shipping with the RMB bit set the other way. Thus the Sony could be mistaken for a hard drive type device, behind a USB interface.
There's really no way to predict, what some manufacturer will do. What they do, doesn't have to make sense.
*******
I would pair one of these...
formatting link
with one of these...
formatting link
That is what I use in the room here, for odd jobs.
I don't have any fancy TVs, so cannot comment on that aspect.
The purpose of my choice in this case, is to avoid storage devices loaded with QLC flash memory. That SSD at least, doesn't have QLC in it. It has a fairly decent TBW rating.
It's possible to get some AData NVMe devices, with a 12000 TBW rating. They're intended for Chia farming, and have Micron Enterprise flash chips on them. But if you stick one of those in an adapter (an NVMe "tray"), there is a real good chance they will draw too much power from the USB port on the TV set. The TV set may be limited to 500mA at 5V. The 860 Pro, when reading at 3MB/sec, is unlikely to draw quite that much. But again, I don't have the USB power meter to make the measurement. If I use a clamp-on meter and connect the SSD via SATA to the PC, then the power can rise because it's being read at 400MB/sec.
Part of the "selection job" then, is not to snag something with excessive power consumption. Maybe an 850 Pro would use slightly less power, but then there might not be any stock of those, and the TBW is half of the 860 Pro.
TBW is Terabytes Write, a measure of 3000 writes per cell or so.
While you can solve some power problems, by using a powered USB hub between the TV set and the storage device... that's a lot of "junk" for a living room setting. Nobody is going to like your taste in hardware if you do that.
That thing is an NVMe enclosure, with a USB to NVMe adapter chip inside. The advert is telling you, that you could stick an NVMe module with
10TB of flash on it, in the enclosure. As if...
Since it has a USB-C connector, when connected to a real computer with USB-C, there is likely to be enough power to run an NVMe module.
The NVMe module is a separate purchase.
As received, the adapter has no NVMe drive included.
NVMe adapter trays are available at 1000MB/sec and 2000MB/sec. When operated with a Type A adapter cable, a 2000MB/sec one can only run with one of its interfaces, and goes at 1000MB/sec. The 1000MB/sec one only runs at 1000MB/sec if you "use a quality cable". I've seen complaints about USB3.2 Gen2 not liking some cabling.
If you select something a little less "bleeding edge" than that, who knows, maybe the power dissipation won't be 17 watts :-)
One of the dangers with things like USB2 ports on TV sets, is there isn't enough power to run every USB toy you can think of. The TV set could be quite gimped.
It skates on very thin ice, IMO. Only once does the word "enclosure" appear in the listing, yes from the price it's obvious it's *only* an exclosure, but the advert is there to reel-in mugs.
In what way is it "solid state", just because it isn't made out of gas or liquid?
Why have 10 prices according to the supposed capacity from 0.5TB to 16TB ?
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