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Torx masonry screws

Yes indeed the wall has to crack or nearly fall over to pull those out! Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff (Sofa 2)
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You should consider doing so. Use a step drill. When I was employed fixing TV wall brackets in hospitals it was normal to drill out the little holes in the backplate. I don't know why the put some small holes in.

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

Ohh arr! Fucking dog would soon have that over.

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

Don't mount it too high. That's the usual mistake.

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

The problem with advising you is that everything depends on the masonry, and it varies greatly. It all depends on the masonry. When approaching such a job I would always have a wide variety of fixings with me, and I'd decide which to use when I'd assessed the masonry.

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

When it's down pissheads and kids will spill liquids into the crack.

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

What's more you can temporarily put the baseplate on the spacer and drill right through it, then put bolts through from the back (run epoxy along them before insertion) and then when the spacer is fixed to the wall put the baseplate on it and hold with nuts. Dremmel the thread flush with the nuts.

Bill

Reply to
williamwright

Agreed, if you actually need bolts (as you might with a slimmer spacer). But if you have 50 mm of solid wood, or even three layers of 18 mm plywood (which I would glue together) you can probably fit the bracket directly using 2 inch No 12's (or the metric equivalent).

Reply to
newshound

+1.

I've only owned three houses, the brickwork in the Victorian and Georgian ones could be very variable in places. And as for the current random stone rubble filled cottage! For larger fixings (e.g. I have a wall-mounted corner shelf unit for TV and audio) the very first job is to hunt for big solid bits of stone, then fit substantial horizontal battens (e.g. 50x38) to these, then build the rest around it. I have occasionally used lengths of 10 mm studding going in a foot or more (usually set in sand/cement because you can lose a whole cartridge of resin per hole).

In a modern brick or blockwork house you should be luckier.

Reply to
newshound

Bert,

those bolts really need to be screwed into a hole drilled with a 6.5mm drill (*), and one where there was no lateral wobbling of the drill bit or you will end up with much larger hole.

The screw bolt needs to cut its own thread into the brick as you screw it in.

As long as you are drilling into nice strong bricks, or blocks or concrete then these screws are fine, but remember you must drill a hole at least half and inch longer than the depth of the screw because as it cuts its thread, the fragments of brick will be pushed ahead of the drill bit.

(*) Read the instruction on the box, or check the manufacturers website.

Reply to
Andrew

Careful. There are some older properties with such thin party walls you might end up in your neighbours house :-)

Reply to
Andrew

They are a bad choice for soft bricks, or solar blocks, but ok provided you use the correct size drill and make a hole deeper than needed to collect the swarf as the screw cuts its own thread.

If I was the OP I would use expanding bolts for the top fixings because they will carry huge loads.

Andrew

Reply to
Andrew

'Modern' blocks could well be solar blocks and those concrete screws will just tear out the edges of the hole. For these blocks, use long plastic plugs with parallel sides and use an HSS drill bit to make a clean hole, so that the plug is a snug fit.

Reply to
Andrew

Just for info, the TV is a 24" one, which would give an idea of the weight. But note my post about how it is actually mounted due to the fixings being close to a corner on the brick wall.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Several different grades of brick used on the average Victorian house. And the inner layer ones the worst.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

We have a 55? and a 48? TV hung off our walls with the internal walls being the cinder type ?breeze? block. All I used are decent nylon plugs and 6mm diam. hex head coach screws nothing has loosened and the brackets are as firm as the day they were attached despite the 48? TV regularly being swung out on its bifolding arms by as much as 400mm off the wall. I have used similar screws in concrete and stone and seen them used in brick and they are a solid fixing and the nice thing in concrete is they can be used close to the edge without breaking off bits. I am disinclined to use them on our ?breeze? blocks as I suspect they would simply grind the hole sides into fine grit rather than make a thread. I will try it on some gash blocks and see how they fare sometime.

Richard

Reply to
Tricky Dicky

Many thanks to everyone for the latest replies. There are too many to reply to individually, so I hope this blanket response will suffice.

I'm grateful for all the advice regarding various types of fixings. I've used Rawl-type bolts elsewhere on the same wall so (assuming a certain amount of consistency) they should be secure for this job, especially given that the TV is a small one (screen size 21") though it is still an appreciable weight.

It might not after all be necessary to space the baseplate as far from the wall as I first planned (50mm): some 20mm will suffice. This unfortunately presumably means that I can't use the neat idea of bolting the timber spacer to the wall and then screwing the baseplate to the wood: I suspect that the available thickness wouldn't be enough for a secure grip (though please correct me if I'm wrong).

Possibly then the best course is to use Rawl-type bolts to attach the baseplate directly to the wall through clearance holes in the timber. Which means I have to make damn sure that the holes in the wall are not only at the right spacing but also dead vertical: any divergence will be amplified horribly when the TV is extended at the end of the hinged arms.

Reply to
Bert Coules

Especially as:

LG's futuristic new TV rolls up into a box with the press of a button ? and it might cost as much as $60,000

Reply to
polygonum_on_google

Given opening and closing a car boot seems to break the wires to it over time, wonder what the life of that is going to be. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The job is now (almost) done. Annoyingly, one of the three Rawlbolts isn't biting: I suspect that the hole in the masonry ended up just slightly too large to prevent the fitting from rotating.

I can't withdraw the loose fitting to investigate without removing the baseplate and I can't do that without completely removing the two successful bolts; and I'm reluctant to do that in case doing so weakens the hold of their fittings.

Perhaps just two of the three bolts will be enough...

Reply to
Bert Coules

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