Top layer of ply partly separated FAQ

Oct 21, 2024 Last reply: 1 year ago 10 Replies

I want to repaint a interior window ledge of a bay window. Unfortunately after rubbing it down and removing much of the old paint, I found that it's made of ply-wood and the top layer in places is a bit springy to the touch. My guess is that over the years, perhaps assisted by water ingress such as condensation from the windows, the top layer of ply has partly come unglued from the rest of it. Replacing the whole window-ledge would be a big job, so would prefer a quicker fix.



I've pushed a thin blade through cracks in the top layer and it seems firm underneath, so it's probably just the top layer that's a problem. It would be nice to re-attach the top ply layer to the substrate before repainting. I wondered if I could bore a few small holes in the top layer, funnel some glue down and hope it could be persuaded to spread out enough to re-attach the layers if it were to be weighted down firmly. But I'm not sure if this would work or what glue to use. Any ideas?


Not sure whether bullnose capping would fit your use or look tacky?

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That most definitely can work. White glue and clamps for a few days will sort it,

Bite the bullet and change it ... or stick a sheet of something over it

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and PVA or perhaps SBR if you need the result to be more waterproof.

If *all* the paint can be removed then fibreglass resin might be a suitable 'fix', since this will soak into the timber and bind all the loose stuff together. Then Cap with a new layer of thin ply, with plenty of bricks etc to hold it flat while the glue dries.

A better hard setting resin may be

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Very much thinner in consistency than fibre glass resin. The consistency and penetration of, say, white spirit.

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The downside is possibly that there is only 15 minutes working time to get it in and clamp it before it starts going off.

Err, anything made by Ronseal has to be viewed with suspicion, IMHO.

Also, Akzo-Nobel also used to have a wood hardener product, and this company has a two-pack epoxy product (not cheap) -

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also Rustins do a solvent-based hardener too -

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I'm not commenting on other Ronseal products but their wet rot wood hardener works well.

I used it years ago to stabilise a cill before adding car body filler and painting it. Most rotproof cill in the house..

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