Toilet cistern overflows

First off, hello everyone. Haven't been here in years, still recognise a few names, but nothing in the modern world is ever as good as Usenet used to be.

So, toilet cisterns. First rule of plumbing (as always) is that you touch one bit to fix it, and then the next pipe joint along fails and takes far longer to sort...

There are two holes in the base of the cistern, water supply and overflow, both about 1" diameter. Their rubber seal washers are squidgy putty, but where do I find a replacement? No-one seems to stock these. Yet they can't be that strange a thing surely?

Also, the overflow outlet is threaded, and will need to fit into the pipework (hard plastic 21.5mm stuff). But is there a fitting for this? Surely there must be a standard one out there, doesn't everyone have the same problem?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Reply to
Andy Dingley
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Welcome back Andy.

I’ve only ever seen these washers supplied with new fittings. The description of yours makes me think that it’s been bodged at some time in the past.

Maybe this is what you’re after?

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Tim

Reply to
Tim+

I haven't got any on-topic comments, but just to say welcome back, Andy! I actually looked around a little bit for you, maybe a year ago, and had feared the worst...

J^n

Reply to
jkn

Yes, I'm afraid it's true. I did move to Facebook.

<clicks like> <posts tiny emoji image>
Reply to
Andy Dingley

It's avocado green. You can guess the rest as to its age.

There's a whole new suite in boxes next to it. Manyana...

£7 for a couple of washers though!

What I really need to do is to find where I left my roll of silicone rubber and laser cut a handful

Reply to
Andy Dingley

+1

I was reminded when I came across your Wikipedia edits and random talk page contributions [citation needed]

Theo

Reply to
Theo

High class bodging! Not sure you really need our help. ;-)

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

Andy Dingley pretended :

A piece of thin wall tube, of the right diameter, place the silocone rubber on a timber and hammer the tube end to cut.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield Esq

That's daylight robbery! You can buy an inlet valve (including the washers) for not much more than £7.

With a bit of skill you can use self-amalgamating tape to make a seal by wrapping it partly around the flange (?) of the base of the inlet valve, and partly around the threaded portion - keeping it stretched it as you go.

Reply to
Ian Jackson

Have you tried a plumber’s merchant, rather than the places like B&Q?

Reply to
Brian

Not over #PlattyJubs weekend, no! I'm mostly looking at the onlines: Toolstation, Screwfix, Greggs (round our way they come in threes) and City Plumbing as the only 'merchant' without a hike to get to.

So far I'm with these:

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they're cheap and they come with two rubber washers that are only a little oversize.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

I was thinking more of an independent one, if you are lucky enough to have one within a reasonable distance.

Toolstation and Screwfix are good for many things - I use both- but plumber’s merchant is more likely to carry just rubber washers etc. As for Greggs, I understand they do good sausage rolls ;-)

Reply to
Brian

Welcome back Andy!

Here for example:

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(although should be easy enough to bodge)

Alternatively, the whole connector would not break the bank:

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(or you can get ones that come out in solvent weld)

you can get adaptors to take those to 21.5mm Solvent Weld:

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The other option is to fit a modern flush valve and do away with the overflow altogether (modern ones overflow into the pan).

Reply to
John Rumm

Mine comes in the side and out of the bottom, but I note there is obviously a part hole in the bottom so it could have a vertically mounted valve of some sort if so desired I suppose. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

So, some progress, but still not enough!

I found the silicone rubber sheet and used the laser. So that's washers sorted.

The design here has two holes in the bottom of the cistern, not the side. So the fill comes in that way, the overflow also leaves that way, via a 1" diameter plastic standpipe with a threaded end. I can see no replacement for this, nor anything to connect to it.

The problems now come down to poor past installation. The inlet pipe is short vertical copper (thankfully with an isolator!) and has no flex in its mountings. So attaching it requires the fill valve to be installed, then the cistern lowered onto it. There's just no way to install the cistern and then connect the pipe to it.

The overflow is a bodge-tastic chain of unglued overflow pipe, running up to a large L bend that goes onto the cistern standpipe. This has a female threaded end which fits onto the standpipe (a plastic fitting seemingly now unknown to modern plumbing). This has broken enough times in the past that it's now largely a blob of car body filler! Sadly it's also irreplacable. This pipe is long enough that it hooks under the rear of the pan (so can't be installed before installing the cistern). The only way to install it seems to be to drain the cistern completely, then unscrew the standpipe and seal washer from the inside, and unscrew it from the overflow pipe. (water gushes everywhere). Re-assembly involves fitting the cistern to the pan, screwing the standpipe into the overflow, then tightening up the clamping nut blind and hoping that it feels like sealing. Screwing the standpipe too far into the overflow will neatly split the brittle fitting in half at the end of the blind thread (explaining the layers of historic body filler).

Now, with it all together, I find that the original fault is still evident and it's still leaking between the cistern and the siphon, so it all has to come out again. FML...

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Brian, are sausage rolls the secret of the belly and double chin in your photo?

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Reply to
Pamela

My toilet inlet valve is connected via a flexi pipe similar to

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Consider replacing the flushing mechanism. My overflow is via the flushing mechanism and the overflow water goes into the toilet overflow. There is no overflow pipe. a variation of...
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Blanking plugs
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Reply to
alan_m

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