Testing a Rangemaster cooker using 13amp socket

We have acquired a Rangemaster 110 dual fuel cooker, 18 years old, gas hob, electric ovens (2), grill, griddle and warmer. To fit will require demolition of existing built in hob and ovens, so I would quite like to know that the Rangemaster works before proceeding too far. At least I would know what bits don't work, if any, and order replacements.
Would it be reasonable to just connect it to a standard 13 amp socket, and test the various parts one at a time? The recommended connection is 30A, with the maximum draw 3kw per item, which is about 13A. I envisage trying the ovens one at a time, just on a low setting, to see if the fan works and the element starts heating. The worst outlook is blowing a fuse?
--
Graeme

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Whyever not? What's the worst that can happen - you blow a fuse or two?
--
Today is Setting Orange, the 45th day of Chaos in the YOLD 3181
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On 14/02/15 10:03, News wrote:

Yep - that'll be fine. You should be able to test each device flat out - remember a 13A fuse will withstand a moderate overload for quite some time (20A for at least 30 minutes sort of time). Obviously it's not recommended to stress your sockets like that for too long so feel the plug occasionally.
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Thanks chaps. The cooker cable is, of course, far too large for a 13A plug, so I fitted a plug to the stoutest length of flex I could find, then joined the two with a 30A junction box.
Result! Everything works. Ovens, grill, fan, warmer, even the gas igniters and oven lights. The cooker itself has spent the last two or three years in an open fronted granite bothy, but only needs a good clean. Rangemaster themselves were very helpful. They told me the build year, and sent an original manual (pdf) by email. Very pleased.
--
Graeme

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On 14/02/15 15:16, News wrote:

Recommend doing a gas pressure drop test with the cooker connected onces it's convenient - this will not be anything that can't be fixed but you'll verify that all the valves are able to shut off tight.
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Ah. Yes. That is the slightly more complicated Part II. No mains gas here, so will have to be LPG for the four burners. Luckily, I happen to have two large cylinders in the garden, which will probably suffice. One is full, and both are marked 47kg Calor Gas propane. The cooker came with two sets of jets, so hopefully one set will suit propane.
It will be a little man in job though, as there is no pipe for the gas yet, and hopefully whoever installs will have enough clue to run the appropriate pressure tests etc. I gather that the installer has to be 'gas safe' anyway, not that it matters, as I certainly wouldn't do it.
Having said that, do the cylinders have to be outside, for safety? The connecting pipe would have to be copper, with rubber for the final couple of feet?
--
Graeme

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On Saturday, February 14, 2015 at 7:56:59 PM UTC, News wrote:

Why does no-one use petrogas these days?
NT
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wrote in message writes

We have a dual fuel Rangmaster with only bottled gas, and a 47kG red cylinder lasts best part of a year for our usage !
Andrew
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On 14/02/15 19:46, News wrote:

Well, a paid installer has to be registered with GasSafe - and check his card to make sure it carries LPG as a competancy.
Ask him if he would do a appliance connected drop test as it's a second hand cooker.
99% unlikely to find any problems, but you'll know for sure which is nice :)

Something like that - neighbours still have a couple of big red bottles for cooking (we went mains gas a decade back but I guess it's not worth the bother for just a cooker).
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Yes, there is a useful list of fitters at the Gas Safe site, but we appear to have hit a problem. I phoned a couple last week, and one phoned back today. He stopped me as soon as I said second hand cooker. He will not install, or even just run a new pipe for a second hand cooker, because he cannot be sure of the condition of the cooker. Seems a little extreme to me, but I'll try some others, and see what they say. I would have thought the whole point of testing was to check the condition of the cooker, but what do I know?
--
Graeme

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On 15/02/15 22:45, News wrote:

Stop saying "2nd hand" and say you are reconnecting the cooker after some kitchen work, and it seems like a good time to do a check of it...
Don't mention you've bought it...
It's all arse covering...
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Success, I think. Another chap turned up yesterday, and seems perfectly happy to run a gas pipe from the LPG cylinders outside, check the cooker jets, connect gas and test. He said he is not a cooker repairer, so he will install the pipe, connect and check but, if there is a pressure drop when the cooker is connected then either there is a leak within the cooker or a faulty control valve at which point he bows out, which I suppose is fair enough.
--
Graeme

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Yes, I used my big wall oven that way when I was building the house, just plugged it into a normal outlet. In fact its still like that 40 years later, I haven't bothered to install it properly. I just have to ensure that I don't have both the oven and the grill on at the same time.
There is no point in a low setting in your case, ovens either have the element turned on or off, the low setting just means that it isn't on as long.
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