Tap flexi hose spanner size

An excuse to avoid the job. ;-)

I rather enjoy a bit of plumbing but changing taps always seems to involve a lot more grief than it ought to.

I presume you have one of those wobbly headed wrench thingies that are supposedly made for reaching awkward basin/bath taps. Never had much joy with one myself but it might work for you.

Tim

Yes, I have one of those alongside my collection of chocolate saucepans.

Unfortunately, I can't avoid the job as the orders come from on high. It's not so much that the existing taps are no good, but a shower is also needed so that SWMBO can rinse her hair without using the separate shower. Push-on shower adaptors will not be tolerated.

If you believe their spec of 1?" (1 and 1/5")

That should a little in excess of 30mm.

A crows-foot spanner of the right size, they've saved my life in similar situations a few times.

Long box spanner? Eg.

Box spanner?

Which you have to undo in any case. If there is enough movement in a copper pipe to the tap, such as unclipping it or perhaps some clearance under a floor it can be moved to one side, out of the way. At least out of the way for a thin walled box spanner.

When the solid pipe was first fitted there is a good chance that the tap was first fitted to the sink, then the sink fixed in place before the pipe was connected. If there was enough play to connect the pipe there will be enough play to disconnect it without removing the tap or the sink.

Explain that the bath will have to come out. Which, in the last resort, it may have to.

I both wash and rinse my hair in the bath. Do it first before the water might be thought too dirty.

Mole Grips? Yes got a pin hole in one of those hoses, it took two of us in a very confined space to get it undone, then there was the replacement, which was none too easy, tried a spacer but it kept coming loose. Bah humbug. Brian

The thing is, some very short moles do often do it but its a very little at a time. I'm not going to be able to do it myself next time in any case. grin. Brian

Having done this job last year & being of an age where I no longer have sufficient dexterity & muscle power to use a basin wrench, I bought a 29mm crows-foot spanner. This allows a 1/2" socket ratchet drive & extensions to achieve the right length to clear the bath & undo the nuts without too much body contortion. A torch is also helpful rather than trying to do things by feel. I baulked at the idea of paying about £9 for a tool that I am unlikely to ever use again - but it's much cheaper than getting someone else to do the job.

I found in a confined space a photo using a smart phone to be useful in determining what is there before starting the job.

Also, with sink/bath tap back nuts I have ditched plastic and thin nuts that often are supplied with the taps and purchased deep brass replacement nuts.

In the past I've encountered plastic nuts that have cracked and "brass coloured" nuts that have completely rusted

The other point no-one else has yet made is that if you are replacing the taps, you could always cut them off just above the bath with a cutting disk in an angle grinder, and then use a grinding disk to remove the very last bit allowing the flexi pipe to be removed from underneath. This should be straightforward on a steel bath. With an acrylic one (and to a lesser extent fibreglass) it would be important to keep checking the temperature of the stub, so that you don't soften the plastic.

I'd do that if I had a socket set...

Step 1: buy/borrow a socket set - they're even more essential for DIY than an angle grinder ;-)

I tried to do something similar with some very old taps in a ceramic basin - it was a bu&&er of a job. The taps are brass and you can't get anything near enough to be effective. The answer was to cut the pipes and use stacked box spanners (with a large tommy bar, and a large spanner holding the tap) and cautious application of heat.

I'm talking about cutting them off *above* the bath; I can't envisage any normal bath or basin geometry that won't let you get a 125mm angle grinder on to both (you might have to start with the more accessible one). A bit more metal to remove if it is a double tap with a single spout. Brass can clog abrasive disks a bit, but it still cuts reasonably easily IME.

I'd put them just *after* an angle grinder and a cordless impact screwdriver. A 3/8 set is usually best for domestic use.