Surface mounted cable runs

May 28, 2006 10 Replies

I want to run a spur off an existing wall mounted above kitchen worktop area socket (on the ring).



I plan to run the cable vertically down, sunk in the wall (metal shielded) to just below the worktop, then run surface mounted horizontally in plastic trunking, then back up sunk in the wall (metal shielded) to the new spur socket.



Any problems with this plan?



Cheers, Darren.


I want to run a spur off an existing wall mounted above kitchen worktop area socket (on the ring).

I plan to run the cable vertically down, sunk in the wall (metal shielded) to just below the worktop, then run surface mounted horizontally in plastic trunking, then back up sunk in the wall (metal shielded) to the new spur socket.

Any problems with this plan?

Cheers, Darren.

Sounds fine but why bother with shielding the vertical runs of cable? They will be in allowable zones. Assumes I've understood correctly that the first run come down from an existing socket.

Presume you don't need reminding about kitchens and Part P?

Any kitchen work done by somebody not registered (who cannot sign it off) needs to notify building control and pay them to inspect :(

The message from "Tim Morley" contains these words:

Or just ignore it.

If you use the old black and red cable who can say when it was done.

The message from " snipped-for-privacy@tiscali.co.uk" contains these words:

Or, for that matter, use the new colours and claim you had to replace the cable because you moved the socket a few inches and the old cable wasn't long enough so had to run a new bit - but the original had been there years, honest.

I assume you have a reason why you don't mind chasing the wall below the existing socket but don't want to chase the wall horizontally from the socket to the new spur? If its just decor why not think long term.

Jim A

Agreed, however watch out for dated components (sockets, junction boxes etc) some with dates in reverse order and some in other less recognizable formats. scratch or rub them out.

The message from "jim_in_sussex" contains these words:

Or just claim that you replaced a damaged component at the same time. Or just not worry about it at all.

None. It is overkill, however. As there are visible fittings, you do not need the metal shielding. The plastic trunking is also not needed for surface run cables, although it can look neater if visible. Also, you can probably just run horizontally without bothering to drop down. Although vertically is normally preferred, horizontal runs are common in the above worktop kitchen situation, particularly as they help with voltage drop and earth loop impedence due to the massively reduced cable requirements.

Christian.

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