Any oil based paint is described as a synthetic, for example Linseed,
Alkyd, Polyurethane and basically any paint that can be diluted in
Turpentine, whereas Cellulose, Acrylic, and two component are not.
On Thursday, June 13, 2013 1:15:13 PM UTC+1, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Being utterly fed up with all the drivel being talked here I went to my
workshop. Pulled out an old box I had brush painted with household paint some
time ago. Masked off a strip. Polished one side with 'T'cut. Result can be seen
Now all you 'experts' can squirm and argue all you like. Proof of ability to
polish household paint is provided. You can even see the rag where the 'T' cut
removed a little of the surface.
Please do not discuss quality of painting etc. This is just an old box I was
experimenting with. MDF primed and one coat of household paint applied.
And equally I don't want to read any rubbish about 'T' cut removing a little of
the surface and not really polishing etc.
Not interested in semantics discussing definitions of 'polished'
Not interested in reasons only results. It polished the surface. The higher
level of gloss can be seen. It might not be a mirror finish but I really
couldn't be arsed going to a lot of trouble just to prove the point.
All this discussion about the make up of different paints making some unsuitable
to be polished is irrelevant twaddle.
Proof of the pudding is in the eating.
And no I haven't photo-shopped it or made any corrections to it. Straight from
Your idea of polishing something appears to be going from very very very
rough to very very rough.
Try polishing it to a true mirror finish.
That some paint has come off on the cloth means you've used an abrasive.
Same would happen with sand paper.
*Geeks shall inherit the earth *
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
On Saturday, June 15, 2013 11:28:02 AM UTC+1, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Now you are demonstrating the abysmal depths of your ignorance of the subje
ct under discussion not to mention changing your position. I never made any
claims about how high a gloss could be obtained by polishing a domestic pa
int only that it could be polished.
I've proved I could do this. Wriggle and squirm all you like all your claim
s have been shot to pieces. Too late now to start qualifying your statement
s. When you are in a hole stop digging as at this stage you are only demons
trating your argumentativeness and your inability to admit you were wrong
I have proved my point.
I have demonstrated this proof.
Give it up sunshine.
That does not prove is can be polished, all you've done it remove a
tiny amount of paint which has improved the shine slightly.
To polish a traditional Linseed oil based paint you would have used
pumice powder or cuttlefish bone as a slurry compound as this was used
in various degrees of fineness to either flat or enhance a shine on an
oil finish, think horse drawn carriages.
You CANNOT polish oil paint using modern car finishing compounds like
T-cut or Farecla etc because they are too course a substance.
Traditional oil paint can only be polished using Rottenstone or similar
ultra fine polishing compounds (Liberol range for example) and even then
you still polish the skin.
You could use modern wet-or-dry sand papers but this method is far less
effective than the old fashioned methods used on oil paints.
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
W.T,F, What drugs are you on? Iimproved the shine slightly but this doesn't
constitute polishing the surface ?
Have you any idea what you are talking about ?
Think of days before car polishing compounds were available. They had nothi
ng better so this is what they used.
But I just did and showed you. Whjat more do you want.
What else could I polish if not the skin ?
Wet and dry abrasives have not changed in any extent since it was invented
by 3m many moons ago so whats this nonsense about 'Modern day wet or (c.v.)
dry sand paper. (It is known as wet AND dry paper) and has been a silicon c
arbide grit based abrasive for as long as I can remember.
In the end of the day one is only using an abrasive to smooth the surface.
What that abrasive is, is irrelevant.
For a while I thought perhaps you knew what you were talking about but this
is utter bollix. The degree of reflectance of a polished surface is down t
o how smooth the surface is. The smoother the surface the higher the reflec
tance. This is a question of degree. Pumice stone, jeweller's rouge, rotten
stone all are just abrasives with varying degrees of coarseness. The finer
the abrasive the smoother the surface the higher the reflectance but it is
still just a matter of degree.
'T' cut polishes the surface as I conclusively proved. This is not to say f
iner abrasives would not give a better finish but I never claimed that. I j
ust claimed the paint could be polished.
And is a process of removing a tiny amount of paint to improve the shine
slightly. It is done with abrasives of finer and finer grade ending with
a penultimate polish with an abrasive that breaks down under pressure
into finer abrasive particles. The final polishing process is with a wax
to fill the tiny scratches and to provide a surface gloss.
Actually it does, it's possible to polish household paint to a high
gloss. One needs to take account of the longer drying time (or rather
the longer time required for polymerisation of the binder) but it's
==========="One of the best ways to get a reasonably smooth and shiny finish is to
use an oil paint, such as Benj. Moore's High Gloss Impervo, and apply
several coats using a short nap mohair roller (6", 9" or 12"), letting
each coat dry overnight before recoating. The oil paint is pretty good
at leveling out into a fairly smooth finish.
"You can make the surface even smoother by lightly wet sanding between
coats with a 400 grit sandpaper. The wet /dry sandpaper is black, and
usually comes in 200, 400, and 600 grits. You use this paper by applying
a little water to the surface, and then lightly sand the surface, all
the while keeping the surface wet. Wet sanding allows you to quickly
sand the surface, all the while keeping scratches to a minimum. The top
coat of black, applied evenly, will dry pretty smooth.
"If you want to push it further, and make the surface even smoother,
then you can, after wet sanding with the 600 grit paper, take some
automotive rubbing compound, and using either a power buffer or some
serious elbow grease, buff the surface, removing any visible scratches.
The finish will now be smooth, though with a slightly hazy sheen. Use
some automotive polishing compound to remove the haze and bring up the
shine. The more time spent on this step, the greater the gloss."
==========="[H]ow do they get the door of No 10 so shiny?
"One simple answer is elbow grease: a flotilla of maintenance staff,
lighting up the night with their exertions. Never has gloss seemed so
glossy. So, how to get the look. The answer - again - is hard work
(there's a lesson there, too).
"A proper primer and undercoat, and even a gesso (thick, chalky pigment
to level off the grain of the wood), sanded down afterwards, then maybe
four or five coats of a good paint, allowed to dry thoroughly and sanded
after every coat.
"American paint expert Glenwood Sherry recommends wet-sanding with a
400-grit paper and polishing between coats, then finishing off with a
water-based varnish: 'Oil-based varnishes and polyurethanes have an
amber tint and will discolour the surface.' "
I'm assuming from your comments on this that you have never done a
decent job of painting a door. It takes bloody ages and as detailed
above part of that ages is taking the time to flat down between coats
and to *polish* the surface to remove brush marks and ensure a glossy
finish. Final varnish or wax coats are used to protect the surface, just
like painting a car.
If, as you seem to claim, the gloss does not harden sufficiently after
24 hours to permit wet and dry sanding and polishing then none of the
above would work. Yet it does.
The difference between car paint, cellulose in particular, and oil based
paint is the time factor. You can polish cellulose within the hour, with
the exception of application of a wax.
On Sunday, June 16, 2013 2:42:39 PM UTC+1, Steve Firth wrote:
Indeed. About 30 years ago we moved into a new house with high quality 4 panel
I went gradually down to 800g, and a number of coats, matting between each coat.
The final very high gloss finish led my mother-in-law to accuse me of having
them spray painted.
Talking of front doors I always envied the residents of Amsterdam their very
high gloss finish front doors. Achieved via gesso I believe.
The finish was so good over the next 15 years I never had to re-paint a door
The shine of No. 10's door appeared to change radically quite a lot of
years ago. (Maybe during IRA campaign times?) I suspected that it is now
a heavy steel object. On your above link someone has posted:
"I've been inside 10 Downing Street and the front door is reinforced
steel. It also has no lock which is why they have an attendant to open
and close it."
The first part of which does indeed agree with me - right or wrong!
Seen it and done it. But at this point we are not talking about cars.
None of it, the reference above is to household oil based paint. As you
would see if you hadn't blinded yourself. Note the words "oil paint"
repeated in the quoted text.
Oh look, you're off trying to change the subject, again. I've already said
it takes time and effort, but you were, until your latest wriggle, claiming
that it wasn't possible.
trapped in the past. Clear top coats have been standard on cars since the
end of the dark ages.
Been there, done that, produced a door that looked like the one at No 10.
Thanks for asking. Not just done it, but done it in several houses over
many years using Johnstones and Brewers oil based paints.
You're the one who clearly has never done the job, as is clear from your
It's amusing how you twist and turn. If I make a statement based on my
experience you dismiss it out of hand. If I support a statement with
evidence you lash out about "trawling the net".
I got all of it right and I produced evidence to support that it's not just
my opinion. You OTOH just flapped your lips and did your usual insults.
You can have that last word you want now.
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