Solid wood worktops



Thanks for all of the replies very helpful
A couple more questions
I can oil the uncut work tops for as long as I want
As I need to remove the old worktops and then measure and cut the new ones I only have a limited amount of time in which to oil the cut ends and the sink cut out. what have others done in this respect?
Second when cutting out for the panel connectors I already have a range of forstner bits and a 1/4" router so would I need to get a 1/2" router and worktop jig to cut the slots? As the worktops will be butt joints I would not need a jig for the joint itself
Thanks again
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What's "beech" ? European beech is a fine timber that makes good kitchen worktops (albeit a bit dull looking, IMHO). American beech is a different species, fairly rare and nothing like as good in kitchens (some of it's just a marketing name for poplar anyway). If "Norfolk Oak" are merkins, then they're not comparing like with like.
OTOH, American white oak is good stuff and usually visually better than average European oak. Don't use red oak though.
Personally I wouldn't use oak for worktops or sink surrounds in a kitchen (built a couple and they're gorgeous) owing to the risk of iron staining from almost any combination of steel or iron and water. You can seal it, but even then it's too much of a risk.
You cut with the nearest chainsaw to hand, then trim neatly with a 1/2" router. Mostly because fitters will have routers and jigs to hand, also because a cabinet saw accurate enough to saw a good visible edge would need to be a huge beast with a sliding table to support the worktop. It's not a portable tool, nor would a portable saw give an IMHO acceptable edge (unless you're doing breadboard ends).
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Depends on the saw, my 9 inch Hitachi (old version of this one: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/92947 ) cuts perfect ends on 40mm beech block worktop (and everything else I've used it on).
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