Worktops - which type...

[Tim Watts]

Hi,

We approach the time when we will be ordering our kitchen units. Found a good online site with a showroom and the carcasses seem very solid, so that's settled.

Now, the ultimate question... What worktop material?

OK - there will be a million different answers, but here goes :)

Stone (slate, granite etc) - too expensive for us - ruled out.

Stone/resin engineered laminate over MDF - still fairly pricey but not as bad as stone. Not sure how tough this is.

Regular formica/chip - always has problems with the formica (whatever) never being very robust. Either water gets in and lifts it or it stains (OK, I cook curries) or it doesn't like the odd bit of heat...

Wood. I like this, in that it *could* be long lasting and can be repaired if it gets abuse. I fancy my chances of fitting it myself too. But some woods seem to be a sod for blackening if any water gets left (have kids, it is going to happen, often)...

I'm veering towards wood if I can find a type and/or surface treatment that is reasonably forgiving - SMWBO will need convincing, she likes stone, although showing here the budget spreadsheet recently may have cured that!

I suppose there might also be the option of glass over wood - not sure if this is a done thing or how difficult it is to do, and whether there are cons...

Random opinions sought - especially if it's a product recommendation :_)

[js.b1]

Laminate is the toughest. Router the joints & waterproof glue. Use something to protect the worktop re stains, or perhaps Dupont offer something "repellant".

Wood is higher maintenance, and needs religuous use of cutting boards, hot stands etc. Laminate is more forgiving of day to day without maintenance apart from eventual replacement. Wood is good for occasional use worktops, kitchen or breakfast area tables, built-in tables and so on - if maintenance is likely to be less. Either that or Osmo is your friend re hard wearing oil, wax-oil or wax transparent or opaque finishes (you can buy samples as getting it right can be fun).

[John Rumm]

Would this include the Corian type of materials?

Must admit to never having had a problem with this - pick a decent one and it seems robust enough. Not had any problem with stains either - although I would probably go for a speckle patterned one that would not show them anyway.

The quality of the fitting counts in both cases - if the joints match well and are well sealed before assembly it is difficult for water to get in.

Could go for stone insets in strategic places...

Probably easier to chip.

Considered stainless?

[Dave Liquorice]

(whatever)

Same here. I did singe a laminate worktop once but that was taking a pan that had boiled dry off the hob and straight onto the surface.

Do you cook curries? Tumeric can stain *anything*. B-) But even that normally fades after a week or so of the daily wipe down.

[Arthur51]

A few days ago I came across a Concrete method. Its also diyable with some books available on the subject. Google 'concrete countertops'

Arthur

[Tim Watts]

Thanks, I'll check out those products :)

[Tim Watts]

Yes indeed.

To be fair, the first was one my father did in the 70's when a) the products really were crap, and it really was formica; b) 1 newbuild house (Crest) and 1 newbuild flat (Ideal) so lets guess which end of the catalogue they bought their materials from (hint, it wasn't the expensive end!).

I might consider it - I just don;t want to be refitting then in 10 years... In the worst case, wood at least responds to a good sanding and refinishing.

That's a good tip - what do you glue an edge joint with? EVA or epoxy or silicone?

That's a nice idea and a good one for mr router. Get a tile, set in.

True. And would have to be templated, so probably as expensive as corian overlay.

Ah yes. And no ;->

[Tim Watts]

Different... Wish I could find the link, but it reminds me of a hosue in the USA where they self-builders laid concrete slab floors, then polished them aka shopping centre, but more boring 'cos it was plished concrete. But the piece de resistance was when they then etched a stain into the concrete (I don't know - some funky acid, turned it different shades of orange and brown. By masking and reapplying the acid, they created a terracotta tiled finish, with apparent grout lines in a very elaborate pattern - and mirror smooth to boot.

[Bruce]

The answer is surely to have a Turmeric colour worktop.

I'll get my kagoul ...

[Bruce]

Many years ago I worked on a defence project where the kitchens had reinforced concrete floors (blast resistant structure) that were finished with a polished granolithic screed.

All the kitchen equipment was stainless steel and the monochromatic effect of polished steel over a twinkling silver-grey floor was really cool. I've often wondered whether it could be achieved in a domestic kitchen but have never had a partner who shared my appreciation of monochrome.

[Leo]

I recently visited a laboratory in Canada where I worked in the

1980s. The lab benches were made > >

[pcb1962]

I have beech block from Howdens, fitted myself. Good coat of Danish oil every 6 months, absolutely no issues with blackening, I think that's maybe more prevalent with oak.

[stuart noble]

That's a good advert for car body filler, but I would think the same thing could be achieved more easily with lay-up resin.

[John Rumm]

You can get purpose made (coloured) sealers / fillers for the job. However I like to soak something waterproof into the exposed chip before assembly. Old gloss paint or varnish would do nicely.

Indeed - or a strip of three say beside the hob etc. Make sure they are decent strength floor tiles though - ordinary tiles crack too easily.

Can look nice as a splashback...

[John Rumm]

Or use a synthetic resin worktop in the first place?

[The Natural Philosopher]

Most CBF is layup resin with a mica filler.

Not sure its any cheaper in bulk mixed or not.

[GMM]

I fitted an oak worktop two years ago, with some trepidation (as there were mixed reports on here), but it's performed very well so far. Cost was more than laminate but much less than some of the fancier things (though it was an online thing and they can easily vary 2 - 3 fold depending on source). The weight kind of surprised me - they are 'king heavy, but it was simple to cut (circular saw for the cut then router to finish) and fit (biscuit butt joints cut with a router biscuit cutter from Transtools, a bit of clear silicone in the joint). I've left the edge square but keep thinking that a skim round with the router wouldn't be a bad thing - have been waiting for it to get a chip or ten before doing it. Two issues I encountered: First it picked up a dent on fitting. I steamed it out with an iron and wet kitchen towel but if it had been laminate, that might have been a chip, which would be difficult to fix. Second, 'worktop oil' never seemed to saturate the wood. After a few thousand coats, I gave up and used Danish oil, which works much better after a couple of coats. After two years, it picked up a few superficial scratches so I ran over it lightly with a random orbital sander and re-oiled it, so now it looks pretty much like new.

[Matty F]

This is my Formica bench after about 17 years.

scrub food off it with a metal scouring pad and that doesn't seem to harm it.

[Andrew Gabriel]

I'm careful not to spill the radioactive contamination when I'm making a curry, but while it self-cooks, you have to be careful to avoid burning the worktop with the dish bottom, and remember to make sure you've taken out all the control rods when it's done.

[John Rumm]

This is the recipe for those who find the Bengal Phall with added napalm and broken glass a little on the mild side I take it?