Finishing Oak worktops..

Osmo do a large range of natural wax/oil finishes - easy to apply and recoat as necessary - IIRC they have "food safe" accreditations too...

Jim K

Danish oil would be my choice for oak furniture and beams that you want to look nice and be fairly spill proof. Not sure about its food safe credentials though and don't ever leave rags wet with it lying about - they can catch fire spontaneously. Otherwise beeswax polish.

Both are much harder work than varnish but give a more pleasing look. YMMV

Liberon finishing oil... gives a natural oak finish in either satin or gloss (depending on how many coats). Seals well against moisture and stains. Easy to retouch etc.

Its what I used on:

Danish oil every time. Cheap, easy to apply and re-apply, does the job.

I hear Toksvig uses it to lubricate her strap-on.

Bill

Most of the finishes that people avoid because they don't "look right" don't look right because of the way they are applied. Anything you lovingly massage into the grain with a rag will look better than anything you tosh on with a yard broom.

In article , tony sayer scribeth thus

Thanks to all who replied I think, as I've got some, try a bit of the Danish Oil on a spare bit and see how that comes up.

Why is the stuff so incendiary when left on an old rag, anyone know?...

and the Osmo company replied very quickly with their recommendation too!...

Might try that as well....

If it is too old and not much left it may have set like a rock.

The rag provides insulation and a large surface area for an oxidation reaction and the reaction goes faster the warmer it gets until runaway. If you are really out of luck it will catch fire.

The reason that the Danish oil works as a wood finish is that it has unsaturated bonds that are just waiting for their chance to react.

It's what we used in our kitchen.

OK noted..

Noted too;!..