AIUI this (one of the reasons) why we have eaves ventilation. Water vapour penetrates the ceiling, but is continuously swept away by the cross flow of air between the eaves (and any originating from rain that has been blown under the tiles on unfelted roofs).
Probably, yes. But since the attic is well ventilated, it should evaporate fairly well. If in the other hand you boarded over that insulation, you would get pretty serious condensation on the board underside.
No, thats why foil backed plasterbaord is available.
Yes (well 1 W/m.K, since k is not dimensionless) ...
... no, that's way too pessimistic, you've forgotten to include the surface boundary layer resistances again. The U value for 9 in. solid brickwork is usually in the range 2 - 2.5 W/m^2.K, depending on exposure, brick density, moisture content, etc. etc. Still an order of magnitude worse than a good modern wall of course.
[Snip description of internal insulation.]
At least.
There are many advantages to insulating old solid wall properties externally:
- it doesn't make your rooms smaller;
- reduces cold bridging (between floors, etc., hard to insulate internally);
- far less internal disruption;
- gives a high thermal mass, and long thermal time constant;
- avoids the 'summer condensation problem' which can occur with internal insulation.
And some disadvantages:
- much more expensive, external appearance affected, detailing critical around doors, windows and eaves.
As the owner of detached solid-wall house I find the idea of insulating externally quite attractive, if it could be done well. Various proprietary external insulation 'systems' have come and gone over the period since the 70s 'oil crisis'. Does anyone here have any relevant experience to report, good or bad?
You include the both surface resistances when calculating wall U-values. A lower figure (0.04 v. 0.13) is used for the outside surface to take account of wind etc.
BR443
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(PDF) is the definitive guide to U-value calculations.
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