Singer sewing machine foot control

Anyone know how these work?

The foot control of my wife's 1980's Singer sewing machine started emitting smoke a couple of days ago and, at one stage, the motor ran without having her foot on the pedal.

Mr Google suggests that it contains a capacitor which, if it develops a short circuit, can exhibit these symptoms. I opened it up to have a look and there was was a nasty smell from the vicinity of the capacitor, but nothing obviously burnt out. I've ordered a new capacitor, anyway, and will fit it when it arrives. Meanwhile, I've blown all the dust out of the foot control with an airline, and tested it - and it seems to be working ok.

But speed control isn't very progressive - it tends to be virtually all or nothing, like a car accelerator which only has two positions. [This isn't new - it was like this before it started smoking.]

So I'm trying to understand how the speed control is supposed to work.

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shows a photo of the foot control with the hinged top open. The brown and blue wires are connected together via a ceramic cylinder which has a piece of carbon rod protruding from each end. The one at the left hand end is spring-loaded.

When the lid is closed and pressed down, a post on its underside presses down on the centre of the long copper? strip so that it makes contact with another strip below (hidden in the photo) which is connected to the brown wire - swiching on the motor. As the lid is pressed down more, the upturned part at the left hand end of the copper strip moves to the right and presses on the spring-loaded carbon rod. I assume that it is somehow meant to increase the motor speed, but I don't understand what's going on inside the ceramic cylinder.

Can anyone throw any light on this?

Reply to
Roger Mills
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The white tube is a variable carbon resistor. Increasing pressure on the end lowers the resistance. It oughta be progressive. And shouldn't smoke :)

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

There is a pile of carbon disks in a tube. Pressing on the foot control squeezes them together thus lowering resistance and increasing motor speed.

Reply to
harry

It can be opened up and the disks cleaned up/smoothed with fine sandpaper.

Reply to
harry

The oblong capacitor might just be for suppression, it looks like a metallised film type, older ones are susceptible to developing cracks in their case, try de-soldering it or snipping it out ... if that helps then an example replacement X2 cap would be

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Reply to
Andy Burns

May be a primitive carbon variable resistor. More pressure = less resistance. Or the ceramic cylinder has a sliding contact on a carbon rod to be a variable resistor.

You can get repair kits for these (

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) - that silvery cap has GONE - but I'd definitely be looking to replace with something electronic.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Sounds a bit crude to me. Is the motor a brushed type or not? I would have expected a triac in the circuit if its a brushed motor, with a circuit a bit like a light dimmer but with some kind of protection due to the inductive load it prevents. If the variable resistor is worn then jumpy control will be the result. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff (Sofa 2)

That sounds awfully crude to me, I'd have suspected something like a drill speed control circuit. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff (Sofa 2)

This.

It's a stack of carbon disks. The resistance changes with pressure.

Can't remeber if non-destructive disassembly is possible. If so I'd try a reshuffle of the disks.

Thomas Prufer

Reply to
Thomas Prufer

The design predates solid state electronics.

Reply to
Roger Hayter

ISTR a big wirewound pot in me mums control. 60s vintage.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Yes, it's a 'carbon pile rheostat' patented by Singer in 1949 - lots of carbon discs in a tube and you lower the resistance by squeezing them together. Google the phrase and there are some instructions on repairing them.

Reply to
Clive Arthur

Thanks, but that 'kit' consists only of a capacitor - and I have already ordered a similar one from a different source. Look like I could so with replacing the carbon pile rheostat - but no-one seems to sell those.

Reply to
Roger Mills

Indeed. There's nothing 'electronic' about mine.

Reply to
Roger Mills

Useful, thanks. I might have a go, but I don't have a source of spare discs if they're needed.

Reply to
Roger Mills

It probably depends on the age of the machine. The clue is in the original post - the machine is 40 years old.

Reply to
alan_m

Roger Mills snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:

I wonder if there is an all electronic replacement.

Reply to
John

I expect somewhere there are generic controllers that will work with a wide range of machines. Probably any old school foot controller would work if you fitted the lead that goes to the machine to it.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

Oh yes. Motors on these things are all pretty similar. A light dimmer would probably work - badly.

Plenty of either same type of unit or electronic alternatives on Ebay

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

The voltage spikes generated by that sort of motor would probably ruin an electronic device. An additional capacitor might fix the problem.

Reply to
harry

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