Silicone sealant

Hi guys
One job I hate doing is applying silicone sealant. I ALWAYS end up covered
in the stuff.
My general method for applying is:-
Apply the silicone and smooth off with a wet finger. I usually apply too
much and end up gathering a finger full whilst smoothing.
Anyone have any tips for applying silicone? Reason I ask is, work have just
had a new kitchen and toilets fitted and the silicone on there looks
perfect. Nice straight lines, over over smear and even the corners look to
be at right angles!!! How on earth have they done that?
Reply to
diy-newby
Well you've answered your own question in part! Don't apply too much is a good start. Don't assume all can be put right by the magic finger, ie make the bead as good as you can. The poorer sealant sometimes goes on easier but it's worth persevering with the better stuff.
Reply to
Bob Mannix
How can you apply too much? it comes out of the tube nozzle in a 1.5 mm string.
Cotinuation of the string is a good start and then keep the finger wet all the time wiping of the the excess as you go. If the gap is wider than the string then apply another string after you have wiped the first string smooth.
Reply to
George
I don't know, but I can recommend the Fugenboy (Screwfix 28167). This is a set of shaping tools in a particular plastic which does not particularly adhere to the fugen (sealer).
Then you need some water with washing up liquid added as a release agent and some paper kitchen roll.
Decide on which profile you want to have - there are curved and angled ones of different sizes. Apply the sealerbut don't overdo it, then wet the tool (as it were) and run along the join. When there is build up, wipe the tool clean with kitchen paper moistened with the water/detergent and continue. Finally with a clean tool wetted again, run along the entire join.
There is a better product called Fugen Ass
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. I bought one of these in France. For some reason, the company has not managed to market it vrey well in the UK.
Reply to
Andy Hall
Not applied to much in the first place (cut nozzle to width of gap), applied in one long non stop operation, possibly masking, using a professional sealant (these tend to be thicker/stickier than the DIY formulations but skin quicker) and probably the most important, lots of learnt skill.
Reply to
Dave Liquorice
I hate the stuff - the previous owner of this house used it to fill *everything* instead of caulk or filler. Along skirtings, as wood filler, in plaster walls....renovating has been a nightmare getting it all off, especially as he has not only used it for everything, but smeared it all over the place.
Reply to
Maria
People tend to squeeze the trigger too much at the start. One light squeeze is usually enough to bring the sealant up to the hole. Any more and you start with excess pressure in the cartridge, which makes it difficult to control
Reply to
Stuart Noble
I was tlaking to a window fitter about this a couple of weeks ago and he said it's down to practise, and lots of it.
The standard DIY problem; this is the first and only time you do a job.
Reply to
Huge
This is a demonstration of the Fugi that folk have recommended. It makes it look so easy.
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recently picked up a JML 4 tool set for £2.99 in in-store
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Reply to
Steven
It does look easy on that video!
Without accusing them of special effects - it looks too easy, especially where he wipes it across a joint and there is no absolutely no mess left behind.
What sort of plastic is this tool made from... coloured PTFE maybe?
I'm not trying to say that it is a gimmick, as I know that a lot of people use them, but the demo video seems too good to be true!
Steve
Reply to
Steve
The obvious answer is to help friends do their houses up first, you can practice all your mistakes at their place, and then they owe you massive favours you can call in.
Owain
Reply to
Owain
I have always used what I call my silicone spoons:
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are also other methods: Using a teaspoon, and using masking tape (and a combination of the two)
Bob
Reply to
Bob Smith
In message , Steven writes
They also have the 2 piece set.
Dunno anything about these people but they say they offer next day delivery at no cost. So that'll mean Tuesday.
Reply to
Si
Aye, you need a steady flow of sealant and vary the speed of the nozzle depending on the depth of the gap being filled. Cut the nozzle at an angle hold about 90 deg to the gap with the opening facing the direction of travel. You then squeeze and move the nozzle (the tip touching both sides of the gap) aiming to keep the size of the sealant buldge at the opening constant and within the two points of contact.
Reply to
Dave Liquorice
I dunno Dave - it works fine with Firefox, Opera and Konqurer on Linux. Maybe needs settings changed.
Steve
Reply to
Steve

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