Setting Resin anchors into existing masonry

I have a new cranked steel beam (inclined), which at one end fixes to the existing wall of my house (like a lean-to) using a steel plate with two holes to receive resin anchor fixings.

I'm guessing I need to drill two oversize holes in the brickwork, fill them with some resin and then put some 12mm studding in and let it set, before offering the steel up to it and screwing a nut on to hold it all in place.

Would someone be kind enough to confirm this or otherwise, and offer any hard-learnt tips (including what type/form of resin I need, where I can get it, setting times etc.)

Many thanks in advance.

p.s. I have a similar fixing at the lower end where another plate is fixed to a pc concrete padstone using resin acnhors - I assume that the method will be similar, but welcome comments to the contrary.

regards

KB

Reply to
Kevin Brady
Loading thread data ...

formatting link

Reply to
Christian McArdle

I've just put some resin anchors in to hold a steel standard on one side of a slap through. They're not taking much load so far as I can see, I think they're just there to tie the wall end and standard together - the standard was up and stable before I put the anchors in.

Anyway, I looked at the capsule systems, they seemed easiest, but in the end, despite the low loads, plumped for this higher spec stuff I got from screwfix as I was putting an order in there anyway:

formatting link
figured the stronger stuff might mitigate me making an arse of installing it, well worth a couple of extra quid. I got studs and bolts from SF as well.

For 8mm studs it required a 10mm hole. I think the 2mm offset is constant as the stud sizes go up. I drilled in place and through bolted so had to add an extra 0.5mm on to the hole in the standard to get the masonary bit in clean. After drilling I took a good few minutes per hole cleaning it out with a small bottle brush and a bic biro tube attached to foot pump as a blower. Blow and brush at least twice.

The applicator works by twisting the end so I did a trial run to see how many turns were required to extrude enough gunge to fill a hole, then put that plus a little bit more in each hole. You want to discrd the first few inches of gunge anyway to ensure a good mix. Quick as possible, put the studs in with a bit of screw action then leave well alone. The gunge is thick enough to hold the stids exactly where you want them and level. The cure time was estimated as two hours for the temperature (indoors). I left it a day. No faith, me.

Overall, I was pretty impressed with them. Very easy to do.

Reply to
urchaidh

Thanks both of you guys - I was wondering whether to go for resin capsule or injection method - I too like a bit of belt & braces to make up for any shortcomings in experience/skill.

Will post if I have any hilarious anecdotes (like roof caving in when tiled).

Reply to
Kevin Brady

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.