Attaching fence post to brick wall

I want to attach a 3in x 3in fence post to the end of a brick wall. The problem is that the wall is only 9in (22cm) from the house wall. I asked a related question (without mentioning the short space) here and "resin fixing" was suggested. I'm not sure if this is intended to attach a post or similar object directly to the brick, or if it is intended to be used in conjunction with bolts of some kind?

I looked in my local hardware store, but didn't see anything appropriate.

Reply to
Timothy Murphy
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Yup, used with threaded rod usually. You drill a hole, pump with goo, and stuff the studding into the hole. Once its gone off, you then have rock solid studs sticking out the wall ready for posts, washers, nuts etc.

Reply to
John Rumm

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 03:38:03 +0000, John Rumm gently dipped his quill in the best Quink that money could buy:

Just to add ........... you buy the threaded bar in lengths and cut to size required ...... put the nut on first before you cut the bar, to allow the nut to cut the thread where you have sawn ... otherwise it can be difficult to get the nut on.

Mike P the 1st

Reply to
Mike P the 1st

Is the problem that you can't get a drill into this space then?

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Usually with studs rather than bolts. You glue the stud in place, leave it to set and then bolt up later. Rock climbers have "interesting" opinions on the virtues of these.

Fischer are probably the best known maker of this stuff (I imagine their website is informative). You can get them from most big hardware suppliers, inc. the inevitable Screwfix.

You need some studs:

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varieties)

And some polyester resin as either a big tube

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individual servings
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's a lot of economics to think about here, cost of using expensive single shots vs. the high initial and lower individual costs of the big tubes.

These are worth using, if you're doing a bunch of holes in crumblium, as they can save a good price of resin

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't make your own studs from studding unless:

  • It's M12 or bigger
  • It's cut with a decent thread, not the usual badly rolled V-crested rubbish
  • You degrease it with acetone before use.

The thread profile for a resin fixing is _not_ your standard fastener thread. In particular, trapped air on that thread will lead to a very weak fixing.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

I'm not sure what you mean WRT the relevance of how far the wall is from the house, unless, as suggested by someone else, that you can't drill into it because of the small gap? - if this is the case, no amount of 'glue' will keep it in place, regardless of whatever it is you use. If you can drill it, you need some ragbolts, these are like coach bolts but the end is tungsten or some other very hard material. You simply drill a

10mm hole through wood and brick and then knock the bolts through lightly, when they reach the brickwork you tighten them with a socket and they cut a thread into the brickwork - they're used all the time to attach wallplates, which hold up entire rooves
Reply to
Phil L

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If there is insufficient space to get your drill in you could buy (expensive) or hire an angle drill (try Google images). You might also consider an angle attachment for your normal drill but it would be hard work - probably no hammer action. You might find the whole job easier to do using some kind of metal plates bridging both post and brick.

As far as fixings are concerned, I doubt if you need anything as specialised as resin fixings since there are plenty of more basic fixings, such as 'Multi Monti'. Have at look at

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for more ideas.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Cavers too.

Lots of testing has been done on "eco anchors"

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several more pages on the same site.

Reply to
Alan J. Wylie

Place the post over the studs before the resin goes fully off to make sure everything lines up. More important when 3 or more fixings are used (wall plates etc).

Consider counter-boring the post to accept the heads of the nuts and cut the stud flush. Useful for general neatness or if a gate or fence panel is to be mounted directly on the fixing face.

Don't use glass resin capsules, get the hole too deep or oversize and there won't be enough resin to do a proper job.

Reply to
fred

Or thread then nut on the un-cut end! (in many cases you can fix it all up and chop the excess studding off after the job is done).

Reply to
John Rumm

Exactly. The brick wall is 20cm wide, and its end is 22cm from the house wall (granite).

Reply to
Timothy Murphy

It would be useful to know what you are trying to achieve to avoid wasting time on irrelevant answers.

eg.

Are you just closing the gap between wall and house or building a larger fence..

Does the wall meet the house at a corner or half way down a wall.

If building a fence, is there any reason why the post needs to be fixed to the end of the wall rather than the side.

A sketch or ascii art of what you are looking for could save a lot of time.

Reply to
fred

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 01:35:05 +0000, Timothy Murphy gently dipped his quill in the best Quink that money could buy:

Why not brick the gap up and insert vertical dpc between that and the hoose ?

Mike P the 1st

Reply to
Mike P the 1st

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 11:24:47 +0000, John Rumm gently dipped his quill in the best Quink that money could buy:

I have obviously missed something ... if you have a 1 metre bar and cut it in three .... no cut end ????

Mike P the 1st

Reply to
Mike P the 1st

Angle grinder is faster. Make sure the grinder is revolving clockwise when looking at the back of it and hold it at 45 degrees to the threaded stud.

Dave

Reply to
Dave

Depends on how long you studding is to start with! I quite often get it in 300mm lengths, and hence in this application would cut them in the middle and use half at a time.

Reply to
John Rumm

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