I've got a low wall with coping stone on the top, but the friends of the neighbours' kid keep sitting on it...
I was toying with the idea of drilling a few holes in the top, and putting pointed railheads in there, but they'd need securing - all I can think of is resin, but having never used it, just how strong is the stuff ?
(i.e. would 12mm in epoxy be enough, or should I look to do an inch minimum ?)
(thinking about it, I really need to move out !)
Just sit the coping on a couple of big blobs of car body filler and it'll never move again. Just make sure the surfaces are dust free
coat the top with anti-climb pant - they wont sit on it many more times
..and/or a bit of steel reinforcing along between top course and coping stone.
I think Mr Wilson is trying to fit pointed railheads to the coping (so the kids can't sit on it), not fix the coping to the wall (so it doesn't matter if the kids sit on it).
That's the one :-}
It's the front wall of the house, so it'd look too messy (although the tempation is strong with this one !)
"Colin Wilson" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@news.individual.net...
My crime prevention officer told me that anti climb paint cannot (or is that should not) be used lower than 8 feet from the ground.
Peter
FWIW my rear fence is greased up, and has trellis with barbed wire sandwiched between it and the fence.
The fence happens to be entirely on my land, so if any little scrotes happen to scratch themselves or smear grease all over their new Tacchini tracksuit bottoms while trying to jump over, I fail to see why I should be held responsible... :-p
I did toy with the idea of razor wire (and it still appeals*) but in the meantime, I got a load of seeds for the nastiest scratchiest plant i've come across in native britain and tossed them over the fence (still technically our garden, which we fenced off "short", which backs onto wasteland) and they appear to be doing quite well :-)
*but I know the requirements are much stronger for that
Injected resin is plenty strong enough, assuming the stone is clean & sound. I think 12mm is rather shallow for a railhead though - go for the full inch.
Make sure the O.S. don't come along and re-survey the boundaries to where they see the fence.
My father came very close to losing a chunk of garden to a neighbour that way. When he disputed it, the neighbour's deeds (which was a fairly recent sale) showed the wrong boundary, and the O.S were reluctant to use the boundary from my father's deeds from 40+ years ago, the neighbour went to his grave still disputing it, thankfully when his wife/son inherited it they gave up the claim.
I had a wall/fence project last summer where I was looking for strength for two aspects.
There are brick pillars of approx 0.8m high spaced approx. 2m apart. These were built on a concrete foundation into which vertical rebar had been set, each pillar being hollow inside initially. After the brick mortar was cured, the centres of the pillars were filled with concrete.
Galvanised chains, painted black were to be used between the pillars. Although there isn't a particular vandalism/children risk, I wanted the chain sections to be able to take an adult standing on them without giving way. Pairs of 8mm holes, about 80mm deep were drilled into the sides of the pillars. THe holes were cleaned and studs were inserted and bonded using mortar containing injection resin. The plates for the chains were fitted and the chains attached. They have been tested with two adults.
The second issue was cappings for the tops of the pillars. These are made from Welsh slate 30mm thick, ordered, cut and finished to size. I wanted to have a means of attaching them to the tops of the pillars for keeps, so a simiar technique was devised. I asked the slate supplier to drill two 10mm holes to a depth of 20mm in the back of each slab. I fitted two 80mm x 8mm studs into the slabs with injection resin. Holes to match were then drilled in the tops of the pillars. Finally, the slabs were stuck in place with more resin. This doesn't move either.
Given your project, I'd begin with small holes drilled with an SDS drill through the copings - not too large a drill and not too fast to avoid cracking the concrete. Work up to a size 2mm larger than a stud and drill down into the wall.
Select railheads with a threaded underside or the ability to tap a thread would be good. Clean out the holes in the copings/wall and fit studs with injection resin. Later in the day, you can screw on the railheads, using Loctite or perhaps resin without mortar.
That should bring tears to the kids eyes if they sit on them.....
Well that's how replacement wall ties are fixed, so if it's the "right" type of resin its quite strong.
Cheap houses in Florida these days, and its not snowing like it is here ;(
-We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember Andy Burns saying something like:
A simple post and wire fence on the actual boundary would suffice for that.
Not as nice an area, but have you seen the prices in Cleveland lately?
- you can pick up loads for
6 bed for $5,500 - MLS# 2432534 at the site above
"Bank owned-Needs work"
I could buy that *now* from my current account and still have change in the bank !
Oh dear. What is the point of a wall that you can't sit on?
And I thought I was getting to be a GOM.
My thoughts exactly.
... and mine!
Thanks for all that, just need to persuade the missus to let me do it now ;-)
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