Oh well, I guess there's a reason the manufacturers don't want it back. Maybe it's not the only one with the problem, a bit like those car wheels that have been air tool tightened and will never move with anything less.
Is this grinder a double ended bench grinder,because they have different nuts on each end one right one left hand thread, a rattle gun going in the right direction for each end will remove it.
Clamp the disc in a soft jaw vice? And use the spindle lock.
Is it a normal spanner or a special?
has it got an anti-clockwise thread?
What disc?
Nothing wrong with the thread, the nut from my old grinder fits (clockwise). I think the only solution will be to destroy the current nut somehow. Hacksaw across it next to the thread maybe, or use my old grinder (less accurate probably).
Dismantling the head allows you to get a pair of moles on the shaft, but still no movement.
You may not be able to shift them with the car toolkit brace, but I've yet to find one which defeats my breaker bar.
You could buy a "nut splitter".
(Be warned: I bought one, and found it useless. Wouldn't fit on most nuts, because the body interfered with it fitting well. It would fit some somehow, and then pop off once force came into play -- and that's necessary in its intended use). And if the nut is not a hex nut but a flat round two-hole thing, forget the splitter fitting at all. . .
So buy one, try it, return if useless?
Or a Dremel with a thin cutting disc.
Thomas Prufer
Try rotating the nut somehow and position a heat source so as to apply localised heat to the outside of the nut, so that the nut eventually becomes hot before the shaft which it encloses: so that the resulting expansion might separate the seized threads if only by an infinitessimal amount.
Then use the standard procedure of placing a spannner on the nut and then suddenly hitting the other end of the spanner with the end a long piece of wood with maximum force, while the nut isn't looking.
Yes it's the standard two hole thing. Never felt the need to own a Dremel before and I doubt I'd ever use it again, so don't think that's going to happen. Probably go after it with my old grinder, and maybe a hacksaw to finish off.
Its probably easier to jack the car up and put a block under the wheel wrench and use the cars weight to undo the nut.
It's easier to check the torque settings are correct at home after the car has been in the garage for anything wheel related. Rather than leave it till a roadside wheel change.
The thin cutting wheels for the angle grinder -- they come in thicknesses
1.0-1.2-1.6-2.0 millimeters -- are worth having around, and don't cost much. They remove much less material, and so cut faster, dump less heat into the material, and spark less than the "thick" wheels.They are for cutting thin sheet without warping and blueing them. When used to cut thicker material, they may bind and shatter. Beware of this, budget for bits of disc flying off, and use them so this can happen safely, and they are a very useful tool.
Cut a chord through that nut, passing close to the shaft, and I'd guess that it'll come off easily.
Thomas Prufer
I would use my MIG welder to apply localised intense heat by putting a ring of weld around the flat surface of the nut. I've done this several times in similar circumstances (although not on an angle grinder) with great succ ess. Be careful not to weld the nut to the shaft!
Yes. I had a bolt shear off flush in the old Rover engine. Into ally. Put a gash nut over the bolt shaft and MIG welded it. Came out easily, and no damage to the ally.
But for steel on steel, and mindful of John Rumm's earlier suggestion, I think I would attack the nut carefully with thin slitting disks on a Dremel.
and indeed it did, with a hacksaw. Now I can either use a nut from the old grinder or treat myself to the Bosch SDS Clic. Chuffed.
I suppose there was no clue in the post mortem as to why it didn't want to come off?
None at all, but new nut ran smoothly on the shaft. Mystery
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