I am planning a single pitch roof fitted between two existing cavity walls (house/old garage) and am contemplating fixing to the walls rather than using vertical supports from foundation pads. The outer skin brick is sound but uses wirecut extruded brick with lots of internal holes. Any drilled fixing hole has a 50% chance of finding a cavity!
Any suggestions. Concrete screws with the holes pre-filled with resin? or?
If you have a loose brick you might be able to see where the frogs or holes are and avoid drilling bricks at those locations on each brick.
You could use anchor bolts long enough to go right through the bricks, and anchor on the far side. But if you do that drill carefully after your bit has passed through the hole so you don't blow the far side of the brick.
Since the load will not be 'pull-out' I would have thought 10mm holes, blue plugs, and No 10 or 12 woodscrews, fixing to the masonry between the hole in the brick and the surface, would be fine.
Much depends on the hardness of the bricks.
Bill
I am as regulars klnow a great fan of resin. Of course I use car body filler because it is CHEAP.
I would point out that virtually all houses in the UK with cavity walls its the inner wall that supports the roof and not the outer wall.
Even with timber framed houses.
So make sure the structure can support the roof.
The roof is normally tied in place with steel L brackets about 1m long against the wall and 300 mm on the wood work of the roof. This may vary I haven't looked inside many older houses but you can see new ones being built.
Yes. Clearly amply strong enough for the job and avoids exposing roof timber to weather/rot.
Yes. The chalet bungalow is modern timber frame and the roof was fitted before the outer brick. They used an L shaped stainless tab which is nailed to the frame and has a flat section mortared into the brick course.
This is a very modest structure, about 2.5m2.
I assume that is for wind loading
Bricks are modern and brittle! I have spares. Standard brick size with 8 through holes! Must save clay and drying/baking time.
They are probabaly "Engineering bricks" which aren't affected by moisture. Used for below the damp course.
And it absorbs moisture over time and swells up.
No, it doesn't
When I fitted my parents awning (fixed positions for drilling) I used two different lengths of anchor bolts for this reason.
Hit a hole and a longer bolt was used into the back of the brick.
These are both cavity walls. As Bill hinted, care is needed to not blow a big hole at the back of the hard brick.
Currently thinking short reach anchor bolts secured with resin and going back to the old hammer drill rather than SDS. Starting with an undersized bit....
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