screwfix titan pillar drill

[Stephen]

Hello,

Has anyone seen Screwfix's own brand Titan pillar drill:

It sounds quite good. It has a page and half of glowing reviews, although the last three are very critical, so I don't know which to believe.

I thought I read here that 500W induction motors were recommended for an entry level pillar drill? This is 500W but it doesn't say whether it is induction or not; does anyone know?

It says the spindle travel is only 50mm. That doesn't seem much. Is that average for a pillar drill? Are there any better out there?

Am I right to think that the chuck to table distance is not that relevant because you could swing the drill through 180 degrees to drill larger items?

The remaining figure is the throat depth which is 115mm. How does this compare to other makes? Is it restrictive? It doesn't sound much being what, just over 4 inches.

Here is the spec copied and pasted:

500W Motor 9-Speed 16mm Keyed Chuck 0-45° Left & Right Table Tilt Cast Iron Table View more information

Product contents: Pillar drill, laser combination, shield, spindle pulley, counter wheel, magnetic switch and chuck guard.

Specifications: W x D x H: 300 x 610 x 610mm. Table W x D: 170 x 170mm. Spindle travel

50mm. Throat depth 115mm. Chuck to table 270mm. Chuck to base 330mm. No load speed 280-2350rpm. Weight 20kg.

Thanks, Stephen.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Almost certainly induction. A brush motor would run much faster and need a gearbox - rather than the usual belt drive. And yes, 500w should be adequate. I've not found my Lidl one lacking in power - unlike the previous B&Q cheapie with a smaller motor.

Seems to be the norm for an entry level drill.

If you work clamped in a vice fixed to the table, that distance becomes very important. Some are so small as to be near useless. But 270 should be OK for most things.

[Bob Minchin]

Basically it is a toy drill but might suit light hobby use. No way is 500w enough to drive a 5/8 drill through a block of steel - but you possibly don't want that.

50mm quill travel is quite limiting and you will have to raise and lower the table regularly in the steps of drilling from pilot drill to final size, thus losing centre accuracy. If you thought about the motor it could not be anything else but an induction motor - universal motors would be far too fast to drop the speed simply with belts. Don't expect much from the laser in the way of accuracy.

Are there better? yes of course but you will have to pay a proper price

[Stephen]

What figure do you think is a reasonable figure to look for?

What models were you thinking of (and yes, it would be for DIY use most likely with wood rather than blocks of metal)

Thanks, Stephen.

[Bob Minchin]

I'd be looking for maybe 75mm - the more the better. Try looking for a used Startrite, Fobco, Meddings

eg

[newshound]

I have had a budget model which looks similar to this for ten years or so. I don't disagree with Bob's comments but I've drilled holes up to 20 mm or so in 1/4 inch steel plate with it. Using the lowest speed, lubricant, and a bit of care.

A pillar drill gives you much more accuracy than you can achieve by hand, and having a proper vice which you can clamp to the table helps to avoid the most common accident caused by "snatch" when drilling smaller items held on the bench by hand.

"Spec" isn't everything, things like the quill accuracy and smoothness come into it, but it really all depends on what you want to use it for. If you need the accuracy, you might get much better value from a second hand "quality" tool although you might need to replace the chuck because of wear.

If you also have a small lathe, it is worth having a removable chuck on a Morse taper, then you can use morse taper drills in both.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

It is if you take it in steps.

I'd hardly describe it as a toy drill. Just how many ever need to drill such a large hole in a block of steel anyway?

Of course it could be bettered. But the cost goes up dramatically for a small gain. Economy of production scale. This sort of spec drill is the most common by far.

[dennis]

I have drilled 5/8 holes in steel with my battery drill, the drill press will do it with ease.

Lower power drills can usually do the job, just not as quick. I have put a 110mm core drill trough 6 inches of concrete with a 18V battery drill and it only took three batteries to do it.

[jkn]

My own 2p's worth to add to others.

I bought something similar from Aldi a few years ago. A pillar drill, even of this relatively low quality, has been very useful to me, with wood and meta l. As others have said, the 50mm travel is the most limiting part.

IIRC you can swivel the drill 180degrees, but you have to have the table clamped down or the thing overbalances.

I traded mine up for a larger model, with a better (UK) mfr name, but I hav e no illusions, my newer one will have come from a very similar Chinese Facto ry.

If I came across an old UK-made one others have described - Fobco, Meddings etc., at a decent price, I'd buy one in a shot.

Machine Mart are not liked in this newsgroup due to their shady refund poli cies.

HTH Jon N

[tabbypurr]

I've come to the conclusion that drills are mostly overpowered for marketin g purposes. Years ago I used an ancient B&D to core drill masonry (ISTR som e issue with the shank stopped it going into the modern ones I had with me) . It did it just fine. I also once fell back for a reason I don't recall to using an old B&D to auger drill lots of 1" holes in some very tough wood, and drive lots of screws into the wood. Again it coped no problem - other t han needing to reverse the auger half a turn by hand each time to remove it . Those drills were I think 275w & 200w. They seem to be perfectly capable.

NT

[whisky-dave]

ing purposes. Years ago I used an ancient B&D to core drill masonry (ISTR s ome issue with the shank stopped it going into the modern ones I had with m e). It did it just fine. I also once fell back for a reason I don't recall to using an old B&D to auger drill lots of 1" holes in some very tough wood , and drive lots of screws into the wood. Again it coped no problem - other than needing to reverse the auger half a turn by hand each time to remove it. Those drills were I think 275w & 200w. They seem to be perfectly capabl e.

But you can't drill through a wall to get to safety deposit boxes with a pi ddley little few hundred watt drill. :-)

[John Rumm]

Looking at the picture is looks identical to the equally cheap and nasty Ferm model that I have.

On the plus side, if you have no pillar drill then its better than that

- just. That is about all that can be said of it. The power is ok for the size. The quill travel is too limited and there is *far* too much slop in it at full extension. The chuck does have a morse taper fitting but its female - so there is no option to stick a MT drill direct into the quill. The table flexes all over the place.

It will be an induction motor - likely to be the best bit of the whole bundle in reality.

Its common for the toy drills, but its not really enough.

You could I suppose. You can also swing the table out of the way to get a bit more height.

To be fair, its not its biggest limitation.

[dennis]

Do you want a bet? How long do you have to drill the hole?

[Albert Zweistein]

Until the police arrive I should think.

[polygonum]

First time? Or second?

[Stephen]

I see that SF are also selling a Titan 700W drill that has a maximum drilling depth of 80mm but it is £170, so twice as much which is a big difference.

[Stephen]

Oh dear, you have put me off! I don't have a pillar drill at the moment, and I would like to get one. Have you upgraded from yours yet? What did you upgrade to, or if you were to get a better one, what would you buy?

Thanks, Stephen.

[John Rumm]

As I said, its better than none. There are lots of things you can do with a pillar drill that are difficult otherwise, so I would not like to be without it. I bought it over 10 years ago and still have it, so its obviously not bothered me enough - yet ;-) (or more to the point there are other tools I have thought to replace first).

Note that I use it for woodwork and general DIY, I think I would find it too limiting for any serious metalwork.

To replace it, I would be tempted to go for a floor stander. Something with a more stable quill and longer travel. A far more substantial table with hand crank height adjustment.

[News]

In message , Stephen writes

Stephen, don't be put off unless you are going to be a *serious* user of your new pillar drill. My cheap one is more than adequate for general DIY use such as drilling holes in wood, etc. I used it to drill holes in a large metal gate post, and it was fine.

[tabbypurr]

eting purposes. Years ago I used an ancient B&D to core drill masonry (ISTR some issue with the shank stopped it going into the modern ones I had with me). It did it just fine. I also once fell back for a reason I don't recal l to using an old B&D to auger drill lots of 1" holes in some very tough wo od, and drive lots of screws into the wood. Again it coped no problem - oth er than needing to reverse the auger half a turn by hand each time to remov e it. Those drills were I think 275w & 200w. They seem to be perfectly capa ble.

piddley little few hundred watt drill. :-)

The point is that those ones are just as effective. I found so from experie nce. I thus conclude modern drill motors are woefully inefficient.

NT