sash window refurb

The sash in the bedroom is really old and needs replacing. Unfortunately I don't have a spare =A3800 on me, so it's going to get refurbished instead. I've done this before so I know how to remove the beading and get the windows out to works on. The problem is, the frame has changed shape as a result of a century of settlement and is now a bit wider at the top than the bottom. This makes the upper pane a poor fit.

Can anyone think of a way I could build up the frame so it fits a bit better? I thought about trying to create a very thin wedge and glueing it in place, but it can't work out how to make one. Or maybe there's some kind of springy steel product I could get?

Cheers,

John

Reply to
aboleth
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Hellish job given that the rollers would probably have to be re-positioned. I think I'd start by putting a series of round headed screws in the frame and adjusting them in and out till the upper sash is snug but still moves freely. Packing the sides might throw the top out of line. At least this way you'd know what size "wedges" you need. Car body filler is good for this sort of thing

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Nobs. I hadn't thought of that. Might get away with it with a slot in the wedge.

Nice tip.

There's some fast setting wood filler I guess is pretty much the same. The problem is how to get it to stick. I thought wood might be better as it can't crumble or chip.

Reply to
aboleth

In message , aboleth writes

AFAICS, having used both they are the same thing - just different colours and body filler seems to be cheaper.

It sticks well even in thin layers, and sands nicely

Reply to
chris French

Sash windows can be adjusted to slopey tops and bottoms quite easily, but if you have non-parallel sides your sashes will never, erm, sash? properly.

Can you pull the box out, cramp it back into a rectangle, and put it back?

Owain

Reply to
Owain

would fitting draught excluders into the sides of the sashes take up the gap? Tis an easy enough job.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

As Chris says, it's pretty tenacious and sticks to almost anything. Gouging a few small grooves in the frame would help. Halfords are pretty cheap for small amounts, or a car paint trade outlet for 3.5 kg size. No point in buying it as a wood filler if you're going to paint over it. It's all the same stuff basically.

If you have access to a sawbench, you could machine a strip of 50mm x

2mm wood and fill behind it to give you a flat surface. A couple of dabs of filler would hold it in place to begin with. It goes off in 5 minutes so you could even hold it in postion
Reply to
Stuart Noble

They aren't parallel and no way am I getting the frame apart! This is a job for Captain Bodgeit.

Reply to
aboleth

Yes, I was wondering about that, there are some sprung steel designs I believe.

Reply to
aboleth

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