Say you have just routed a slot with a cove or box bit to create a finger hold in something, but you have some burning at the end of the "stopped" cut. Anyone found a good way of sanding into those small concave areas?
Is it possible for you to shape a scrap piece of wood to the inverse shape that you have (and slightly smaller) and wrap a piece of glasspaper around it as a sanding block?
It's a method I was taught as an apprentice and it's still good today.
Cash
For the majority of the slot, yes - a bit of dowel etc works well. Its a bit harder getting paper to conform to a ball shape to make doing the end of the slot easy though.
I was wondering if it was worth getting a rotary burr or abrasive of some sort that matched the shape of the cutter used. Alternatively cutting a cabinet scraper into a round ended tool (or getting a wood turners round ended scraper)
Yup, I am sure I am not the first to want to solve this one!
IME the burn can go pretty deep, to the point where removing it distorts the original shape, especially if the timber is at all resinous. That said, I'm not great with routers
The best way, if you had the confidence and acquired the skill, would be to touch it with the router again. Practice first ! Adjust the speed of the router if possible or else go at it very gently, the lightest touch at a time. Is the bit sharp ?
Many years ago, when I worked on a temporary job as a grinder and polisher, we would use a piece of emery cloth slotted into a slotted spindle (essentially a piece of aluminium rod with a longitudinal slot cut in the business end). The idea was that the flexible emery cloth would follow the existing contour and take very little from the surface, especially using a fine grade of emery.
Of course, this was on metal, and I would take it more carefully on wood, but similar principles apply. Sourcing the slotted spindle might not be simple (we used to make our own, but that was in a well-equipped metal working factory). On occasion, I have bodged the same approach in the past, however, using a drill bit ( a piece of dowel might work) and a piece of tape to attach the emery cloth: Not very robust, but it lasts long enough the do a job.
No guarantee it won't fly off into an eye at a crucial moment, but that's elfin safety for you....
Many years ago, when I worked on a temporary job as a grinder and polisher, we would use a piece of emery cloth slotted into a slotted spindle (essentially a piece of aluminium rod with a longitudinal slot cut in the business end). The idea was that the flexible emery cloth would follow the existing contour and take very little from the surface, especially using a fine grade of emery.
Of course, this was on metal, and I would take it more carefully on wood, but similar principles apply. Sourcing the slotted spindle might not be simple (we used to make our own, but that was in a well-equipped metal working factory). On occasion, I have bodged the same approach in the past, however, using a drill bit ( a piece of dowel might work) and a piece of tape to attach the emery cloth: Not very robust, but it lasts long enough the do a job.
No guarantee it won't fly off into an eye at a crucial moment, but that's elfin safety for you....
Culled from elsewhere.... use a roll pin as a *slotted* spindle.
If it is just for cleaning it up or smoothing I suggest that you try
Try this
It is being sold by Felder of Milton Keynes in their Christmas offer catalo gue
(Page 47 Cost £31 plus vat no doubt though a google may turn up a cheaper supplier)
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