Ryobi Li-ion impact driver for 50 quid

Sep 16, 2011 33 Replies

Not sure how you would go about adding torque settings to an impact mechanism... (perhaps that is why the tool makers have not offered it yet!)

For smaller screws (say 3mm - 4mm or 8 gauge and thinner) and in the 3/4 to 1 1/4" length range, (i.e. screws that are trivial to drive with a drill driver) then I would agree that there is no real advantage over using a ID in place of a DD. However, having said that I have not had any difficulty in actually using a ID for these. (very small screws get harder due to the lack of a very slow rotation rate).

I don't think I have ever had a screw head actually shear off completely (although see caveat below). With larger screws I find I am less likely to wreck a head with cam out/spinning the bit in the screw when using the ID due to requirement for less force to be applied to the tool. In fact I probably have killed more bits than screws. Mild steel bits are useless in an ID. The wiha / vera diamond impregnated ones work well, although the bits will shatter from time to time. Actually the Screfix Erbauer packs of 25 bits work very well - hard enough to take the abuse, but not quite as hard as the posh ones and hence slightly less likely to shatter.

However the caveats are: you must use decent quality screws, and also good quality bits that fit the screw head very well.

£72 here:

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"Phosphorescent bumper" !?

Glow in the dark driver tip that useful...

Cheers Adam

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Indeed. The very nature of an ID makes this difficult - it'd have to be a serious clutch.

I've used mine as a convenient way to spin in smallish screws but stop just short and use a screwdriver. Due to lack of feedback on screws that can't take wellie, I prefer experience over brute force.

Good tip, thanks.

Yes. I thought that 6mm Turbo Ultra SS would be OK - the ~5mm shank wasn't up to the job.

I've got a 7.2v Makita impact driver TD020DSE. Use it all the time for flat pack assembly etc.

I have sheared a few of those too. At least one while trying to remove it. They aren't as strong as the plain steel screws.

I think turbo ultras are crap, I sold the box I bought after having too many go headless on me. Stainless screws are all going to be more brittle, but the Spax ones are much better, as are some no name ones I got from one of the many fixings sites.

Never had any problem with quicksilver twinthreads. Turbogold are also usually fine (although quite pricey these days). Riser seem ok as well.

I think had it have been available at the time, I would have gone for the small 10.8V one in place of my TD020DSE since its probably more comfortable to hold and has the conventional variable speed trigger.

Like:

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The 12V Mak DD or the 14 yo Bosch 7.2V driver will do that sort of job. The

18V Mak combi will happily manage 5x50 Goldscrews, so the ID doesn't get much use - it was just a toy that i wanted :-)

They are sweet - I was sorely tempted but the 12V kit of DD and ID was too cheap to refuse.

True, even the 18V Makita combi sheared a couple of 6x90 into a 4mm pilot hole in sawn, treated timber.

I don't like the thread on the TU SS ones - OK for semi-automated operation but removal takes out a lot of wood. I'd rather have a plain thread. I started to realise that TUs were crap when I twisted of a 6mm one with a manual 'driver.

Back in the 'Summer' I bought the trade pack of Goldscrews for ~£14 plus 1 box of a size not included. Almost all are sizes that I use and the whole lot was only a few quid more than the boxes that I needed anyway.

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