rusty screws: removal of

Hello,

A couple of weeks ago I was asking about repairing a steam iron. The thermal fuse had blown but I found these were available from the manufacturer quite cheaply. I never got round to ordering one because the old one is rusted in place. It is screwed into a metal box containing the iron element with a Philips screw. the screw has rusted. When I tried to unscrew it, it broke the head off the screwdriver!

SWMBO has a new iron now, and I think I will bin this one but what tricks should I use in the future? I have heard of left handed screw extractors but heard that they are not very good. I was also weary of drilling it out for fear of damaging whatever was below.

Thanks in advance.

Reply to
Stephen
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Reply to
NT

It is virtually impossible to remove a rusted steel screw from Aluminium/mazac which is the most common steam iron configuration of materials. Rust occupies a greater volume than the parent steel and so does aluminium/zinc oxide which locks the screw in good and proper. When the moon is in the correct phase, I have sometimes had success using proper graphite loaded penetrating fluid (not the infernal wd40!!!), left to soak in overnight and then try to TIGHTEN the screw just a little to break the seal and then unscrew it. It is vital to make sure the head is cleaned of rust and if it is cross headed screw, to use the correct size and type (philips or pozi) of screwdriver.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Minchin

On Wed, 01 Jul 2009 20:09:21 +0100, Stephen had this to say:

Although certain spares _are_ notionally available, small electrical goods are increasingly designed as consumer items, meant to be thrown away at regular intervals and replaced during the weekly shopping trip, and most certainly not to be repaired by mere mortals. When was the last time you saw replacement elements for electric kettles, replacement heads for VCRs or replacement tuners for TVs?

Quite honestly, 'amateurs' who attempt to repair these sort of things are seen (totally incorrectly) as penny-pinching incompetent oafs, who have to be nannied by the State for their own good.

... The same sort of logic that brought about the likes of Part P.

Back to practicalities, I suppose the only way to avoid your sort of problem is to periodically dismantle the iron from new and reassemble with something like Copaslip.

Reply to
Frank Erskine

The WD40 Popular Front have you on their hit list Bob, come the revolution...

Few people realise the difference between PH & PZ in practical terms, especially the wankers writing instructions for things who specify a 'cross head screwdriver' is required.

Monday at the Univesity Of Greenwich Medway Campus, major project. 300+ student flats, students have gone for the summer break, rooms are let to commercial language courses.

All of the flat windows have restrictors fitted to limit the opening - except 30% of them had been removed or broken by the pesky students. Four of the more mature students have been recruted to help with maintenance during the break & our task was to replace any faulty or damaged restrictors - and they were issued with PH screwdrivers.

Securing screws were PZ and about 20 had been damaged by the time I spotted it. Quick re issue of screwdrivers sorted the problem, took me over an hour with an impact driver & screw remover to sort the damaged ones.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

:) We need to return to the days of a plain straight forward screws and drivers that did their jobs, with screws that stood up to the elements. Not only do I have to advise those that require advising (or that I have to obey) that Phillips is different from Pz; we now have them darned silly Torxx (and others) which are bound to do more damage but are an excellent retail success!

Could we please send them Marketing Folk to Outer Space. (I have the tune in mind).

After cleaning the cut using a hammer on an ordinary driver, an impact driver (manual) sorted out most painted door or window screws for me.

Reply to
Clot

rather than a machine screw stuff in (dissimilar) metal. Some things apply but other simple things like the use of a pentrating release agent (PlusGas, graphit loaded oil, diesel) are not mentioned.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

success

As with many extremist groups they have blind faith in their beliefs even when the evidence is contary. B-)

I'd rather use a drop of diesel than WD40 as release agent, IMHO PlusGas is the best stuff for stuck screws/bolts in metal, it's way way better than WD40 and yes I have used both.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Er I'm happy to be corrected ...but - wouldn't it have been an advantage to use the wrong screwdrivers if it took you so long to get the screws back out again (to then put the *correct* screws back in) - won't it be easier for the pesky students be up to their tricks again? or have i missed someat?

jim

Reply to
jim

Same as you would on a car. Plusgas, freeze n release, a blowtorch, and an impact driver with a lump hammer. Does the job on brake disc retaining screws ;).

Reply to
Doki

Thats your name on the list as well...

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

From a technical point of view I vote for Robertson screws. Pity his marketing failed (Scuppered by Ford?).

Reply to
<me9

I agree wit hDave, Plus Gas or diesel is /far/ better than WD40 as a releasing agent.

You can add my name to the list.

Reply to
<me9

And if those don't work - all together now:

Reply to
Ian White

On Thu, 2 Jul 2009 12:45:43 +0100, Ian White had this to say:

Car body filler?

Reply to
Frank Erskine

steam-powered rock-breaker?

Reply to
Jules

The respondents seem slow today. It's two words, the first starts with a and the second finishes with r.

Reply to
Clot

Anti Matter?

Reply to
george (dicegeorge)

Congratulations, give the man a coconut.

Reply to
Clot

It's all about using the right fluid. Plus Gas was designed as a release agent. WD40 was designed as a Water Displacer.

And probably mine now.

Dave

Reply to
Dave

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