Can anyone recommend (through personal use and not hearsay/web hype) a
good rust killer plus primer to use on a small awkwardly located rust
spot on a car please. Awkward in that its on the crease of a panel and
under the rear light cluster which I'll need to take out to properly cure
The top coat will be a silver grey metallic fwiw.
I would only use a rust killer in desperation. If it has not gone through the metal I would clean back to bare metal with a wire brush, file or wet 'n' dry then use body filler to build up any lost material before painting using a zinc based primer.
If you can clean it fairly well (>70% bare metal) it's hard IME to beat
red oxide primer. Them work up as you wish with other paints.
Years of my father battling a crappy rustbucket Fiat when I was a kid
taught me none on the magic remedies work, with the possible exception
of phosphoric acid which almost seemed to do some good. Jenolite was
crap. Zinc preparations were useless.
I think it always has done.
The snag with any of these preparations is they just treat the surface
rust. Just sand it down after it has dried to see what I mean. You'll get
back to rust. It might well work ok on fresh thin rust - but not on that
which has been there for some time. Hence the instructions telling you to
wire brush it. So with a spot on a car bodywork, you'd do more damage
attacking it with a wire brush than simply sanding down the effected area
to bare bright steel.
*When it rains, why don't sheep shrink? *
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
That argument would be true for any steel surface. The advantage of
using phosphoric acid is that it reacts with iron oxide to form a stable
and paintable surface. Removing more steel by sanding/grinding seems an
unnecessary way of reducing what good metal you ought to retain.
It doesn't necessarily "keep on growing". I have some bits of steel
in my garden (South Suffolk) which I have painted with the "Vernis
pour Rouille" that I mentioned earlier in this thread and the rust
colour under the varnish just remains ast it was when I originally
painted them. Vernis pour Rouille is actually advertised as a way of
preserving the rust coloured look of bare iron and steel.
Admittedly when there's adjacent paint you always have the difficulty
of getting whatever you're using to coat the unprotected metal under
the edges of the broken paint coating. Vernis pour Rouille is very
runny so does quite well at this.
I have actually used Vernis pour Rouille on a little patch of rust on
our Citroën C5, it seems to be working there as well. I also use it
on our steel boat in France (that's where I first discovered and used
I use this on our boat in France and have also used it on various bits
of outdoor steel back here in the UK. I seems to work very well.
Much, much better than anything I have ever managed to buy in the UK.
It's available at the major French 'bricolage' stores as well, I just
used eBay as it was the first hit I found.
The correct thing is to remove all loose rust first, then use phosphoric
acid that turns any small bits of rust to iron phosphate which is stable
and takes paint well, then fill and paint.
The acid doesn't stop the rust, but it turns loose pitted rust that can
get water under paint, into good stable phosphate that is more resistant
to water creep
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. – Erwin Knoll
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