I like that.
I like that.
There should be a switched live to the thermostat, It's the thermostat that does the switching and it gives a switched live on pin 3. Pin 2 is the neutral INPUT going to the heater element which gets its live from pin
CORRECTION
There should NOT be a switched live to the thermostat, It's the thermostat that does the switching and it gives a switched live on pin 3. Pin 2 is the neutral INPUT going to the heater element which gets its live from pin 3.
If you can't read a very simple circuit diagram, should you be doing this work yourself?
OK, then. In the diagram, the wires coming out of the wall are represented by the coloured lines. Which is the switched live?
Which is switched.
You don't say.
In the diagram Adam supplied - the yellow wire is switched live.
Everyone started off a virgin!
And the fact the OP had the nous to ask before making the connections is a better start than some.
No it isn't. The switch in question feeds the outgoing switched live and also live to the other end of the heater (represented by a zigzag line).
True. But he seems to keep insisting on "switched neutral" - evena fter he is ntold it isn't switched.
But it reminds me of a letter the BBC once reeceived " I think there should be a book written about how Ceefax works. Please tell me so that I can write the book."
Do you think that there might be a misunderstanding here and that he is talking about the live *TO* the thermostat being switched by a timer?
SteveW
There is no thermostat. Where is the switched live?
What do you think a Honeywell T 6303 is?
At this point I'm going to slow back away and leave you to it ...
If its marked with a double insulated logo (square within a square) then it does not mater if it is made of metal.
What model number?
Are you sure its not just a set of "no volt" contacts? (i.e. a switch that closes, but is not connected to either live or neutral itself).
How would you describe the CH on connection from a programmer then?
e.g. pin 4 on the junction strip:
Years ago I saw some of those marked [[]] but in reality they did not take the relevant precaustions and the live connection was very close to the metal case. I don't remember the brand.
NT
In much the same vein, you can get lots of LED lamps from China that "must be earthed" and provide a wire for you to do so. Only problem is there is no continuity between said wire and the metal case.
My cheap chinese "20" watt LED floodlamp was like that, but it's died now. I have an iSpot 30W to replace it with, it is surprisingly large and basically all heatsink ... not fitted yet.
Which comes back to the question I asked earlier that everyone missed.
Does the boiler actually work without the missing roomstat?
It makes a massive difference to how you do the job.
[etc]
Thanks Roger. I seem to have misled people here by my rather flippant remark above, challenging the use of the phrase "switched live".
I already know precisely how the thermostat works, I can even identify the connection wires myself if I want. I was just asking to see if there's a simpler way to do it than by tracing them back to the boiler control box.
As to Adam's question, Does the boiler actually work without the missing roomstat? A: I haven't tried it yet. Why do you ask?
What are you hiding?
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