rivet for spade handle

Aug 05, 2019 Last reply: 6 years ago 9 Replies

In the past I just used a 6" nail to form a rivet to fix a wooden spade handle but wondered if is worth annealing it first so it would form a head easier, is steel in a wire nail a higher carbon than mild? Or I would be better off snipping a bit of some steel reinforcing mesh?



The proper rivets are only 4p each but the minimum order is about £20.



AJH


Not really

Any reason why a screw with a countersunk head wouldn't work? I've always assumed that the manufacturers used a rivet because it is cheaper and easier than a screw. Isn't it there just to stop the handle being pulled out? If so, there is little force on it. I guess that if you wanted something really strong you could use a high-tensile steel bolt, and saw/grind off any excess.

To anneal your nail, it will need red heat. Best achieved by putting it in a fire. Small blowlamp won't have enough heat.

With handles that work loose, I additionally use "gorilla" glue. A permanent fix so far. Everything need to be cleaned up for the glue to grip.

This thread sounds a bit like the everlasting broom joke applied to spades. For the record, I used a stainless nut and bolt. Brian

10 Pack 2" Shovel Rivets - Fork, Spade, Slasher, Rake Handle Repair £3.99

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Yes I've seen several sellers for small packs but my question was really directed at the type of steel, or iron. The proper rivets are much softer than the bits of 6mm steel I have lying around so I assume it is nearly pure iron, wheras the steel in rebar, nails and bolts is a harder alloy.

Yes I could use a bolt but the rivet slides nicely pass the hand when in use.

I used a nut and bolt, then filed/ground the head and nut into domes. Admittedly it's not quite as smooth as a rivet but it hasn't hurt my hands yet.

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