Rewireable fuse (Wylex) convention

Downsizing from a 3 bar electric fire to keep warm to a 15W candle lamp. Guaranteed cost savings of 99.5% and usable light so you can while away the hours reading the 17th edition regs :) dreaming of the day you can fleece customers for Prat P inspections.

You expect to eat too? This is a credit crunch not a free lunch.

That's ok then.

I don't have one here to play with, so can't say for certain (and swapping fuse carriers about is not something I would usually do as a matter of routine). I *am* sure you can't fit a bigger carrier into a smaller backplate - but I can't remember for sure if the reverse is also true. I would be less inclined to use the wrong carrier / back plate combination though as it will be harder to understand for someone coming along later.

A lot of ovens are under 13A - it's the hobs that take the current, and I assume that's gas.

Easy answer is to leave your circuit arrangements as they are and put a

Owain

Aren't the recessed ones for rewirable fuses and the flush ones for MCB/cartridge fuses? Different spacing to prevent fitting the wrong type.

In article , snipped-for-privacy@privacy.net writes

Yes, that seems to jog my memory.

Sorry - a misunderstanding - the 4mm cable is specified to be used from the fixed wiring (i.e. the cooker point connector box) to the appliance.

John

I suspect that the 13A fuse is a misprint. The manual is below

Although the grill cannot operate with the top oven, using the main oven and the grill together gives 4.2kW at 230V. A 20 amp fuse or MCB would probably be the best solution.

Adam

Mike

You have added an extra socket and fused plug to your reply that was not on your original post:-)

There is nothing wrong with a 30 amp fuse supplying 6mm T&E to a single socket and then using the single socket to supply a 15W light using a 3A plug or something similar.

I knew what you meant on your OP but you did not say it. I am frequently guilty of doing that as well.

Adam