Replacing under cabinet fluorescent 'linked' lighting

Apr 13, 2025 Last reply: 1 year ago 7 Replies

We have a dozen or so linked 'slimline' under cabinet fluorescent lights that I installed many moons ago when I fitted out our kitchen.



They are beginning to show their age and I think they should be replaced with LED ones. As they don't have external starters I assume I will need to replace the whole thing as LED 'tubes' won't work in the existing units given that they have electronic starters that can't be accessed.



Does anyone have any particular recommendations or 'gotchas' that might affect our choices of replacements?


Mine's about the same, the slim tubes don't seem to like heat from toasters and steam from kettles much. A few tubes have been replaced and a couple more are now dead, so I've bought some 45° aluminium profile with milky cover for waterproof LED tape, I already drop 240V down behind wall units in several places, so can pop a 12V psu on top and drop the low voltage wires down instead, save too much voltage drop.

I just went with Amazon for everything, considering if I might do another LED run down at kickboard level while I'm at it?

+1. You cannot get much slimmer than LED tape even in a profile and less prone to physical damage.

I went for "ordinary" LED tape (not even a waterproof one), and it has worked perfectly for 10+ years. I hid the LED driver PSU in the adjacent cooker hood, and switched it from the cooker hood light switch, so they power on together. Not been affected by toaster or kettle that sit underneath them.

If you're going for LED strip lights, rather than LED tape (often the strip lights are just tape in an enclosure), some of them are 'linkable', ie you can daisy chain them in a line. I bought some cheap CPC ones:

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(a variety of lengths and colour temperatures)

They're fine for garage/loft lighting. They provide a cable to daisy chain them, but that cable has moulded plugs on each end and is only 13cm long. The connectors are specific to this lamp - they can't be bought separately. So if you want to space them out more you need a junction box to extend the cable (splice the male end of the daisy chain cable onto the female end of the inlet cable that comes with the second lamp). This is rather ugly.

Maybe not relevant if you aren't buying this sort, but the moral is to not assume that you can purchase extra connectors.

Theo

I didn't find those when I searched earlier today at CPC, they seem very reasonably priced. Thanks for the warning about interconnect cable length, shouldn't be a problem here though.

I used some kick-board lighting with LED tape on my units, and it did start to peel away after a couple of years. So either I did not clean the surface well enough , or the modern tape isn't as good as the older one. I think this is more likely. I did try clips with not much success. If I did it again I would put it in channel.

For under unit lighting, I have used some very slim units from Ikea but they no longer seem to be available...

Dave g4ugm

The ones I fitted in 2020 came from Screwfix. They came in a few different lengths, so I could do runs matching cabinet widths, with no interconnecting cables required, as the fittings matched the 500/1000 or

600/1200mm cabinets and plugged directly into each other.

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